It's not a S30, but I have been restoring my wiper pivots on the CSP311, but could be of interest to some. The pivot design hasn't really changed between the models in design principles.

https://csp311.net/blog/page-12-ページ12/

Last 1/4 of the page.

The wavy washer in the 2nd post in this thread I think is to take up some slack and keep some tension on the arm and pivot housing, as without (like mine) gave room for the pivot move a bit eliptical in the pivot housing (due to a 1-1.5mm space at the bottom of the pivot housing), making everything worn.

As you see from my blog a new brass inner sleeve was made for the pivot housing. The original housing had a copper inner sleeve. I have made a brass spacer, and I have added provision for greasing, and machined an o ring top and bottom.

 

19 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I've taken apart more than a few and they are always broken, twisted or broken and twisted, you got lucky or I'm unlucky.

Although a bit finicky, but it's really not that hard to make a new spring from scratch.  Start by finding a socket wrench with an OD that's roughly 75% of the OE spring.  Clamp it vertically in a bench vise and then, using plain galvanized wire of ~ the same gauge as the OE spring, wind two turns around the socket.  When relaxed, your coils will expand a bit.  If the resulting OD is too big, you need to use a smaller socket (or vice versa).   It takes a bit of trial-and-error.  Fortunately, wire is cheap.

Once you get the spring OD about right, cut it back to one coil, leaving enough to bend a 90-degree dogleg at one end.  Cut the dogleg to length.  Now heat your new spring with a torch to get it red hot and then quench it in a small jar of motor oil.   

Here's a pair of my homemade springs...

Edited February 19, 20241 yr by Namerow
photo added

44 minutes ago, Namerow said:

Although a bit finicky, but it's really not that hard to make a new spring from scratch.  Start by finding a socket wrench with an OD that's roughly 75% of the OE spring.  Clamp it vertically in a bench vise and then, using plain galvanized wire of ~ the same gauge as the OE spring, wind two turns around the socket.  When relaxed, your coils will expand a bit.  If the resulting OD is too big, you need to use a smaller socket (or vice versa).   It takes a bit of trial-and-error.  Fortunately, wire is cheap.

Once you get the spring OD about right, cut it back to one coil, leaving enough to bend a 90-degree dogleg at one end.  Cut the dogleg to length.  Now heat your new spring with a torch to get it red hot and then quench it in a small jar of motor oil.   

Here's a pair of my homemade springs...

Excellent job a little beyond my means at the moment. One thing I would add is make sure the rotation is in the correct position I see these two Springs are different and one may not work as well since the point here is torsional resistance and not compression the rotation has to be in the correct direction.

4 hours ago, Richie G said:

Excellent job a little beyond my means at the moment. One thing I would add is make sure the rotation is in the correct position I see these two Springs are different and one may not work as well since the point here is torsional resistance and not compression the rotation has to be in the correct direction.

Good eye.  I can't remember why I did that.

 

Edited February 19, 20241 yr by Namerow
Removed a statement which implied that the OE spring has only one coil..

Actually all the ones I've seen have always had two full coils with the bend at the end of the second coil that's why if you notice in my picture my Bend was snapped off and bending to make a new shorted me by about a half a revolution

1 hour ago, Richie G said:

Actually all the ones I've seen have always had two full coils with the bend at the end of the second coil that's why if you notice in my picture my Bend was snapped off and bending to make a new shorted me by about a half a revolution

You're right.  I'll edit my post.  Here's a nice picture (credit unknown) showing the spring in its natural habitat...

The wipers on my '71 were a little slow so I removed the motor & linkages and gave them a thorough cleaning. Prior to working on this the wipers moved in both slow and fast, and the parking function worked normally. The pivots were surprisingly corrosion free and turned easily. The joint closest to the motor was pretty stiff and after cleaning all of the linkages turned freely. I lubed with lithium grease after cleaning. After reinstalling, the wipers would not move in slow or fast. I know the linkage is binding somewhere, but not sure how to correct this. I disconnected the linkage from the motor and the motor is functioning just fine. Any ideas?

1 hour ago, Zpenman said:

The wipers on my '71 were a little slow so I removed the motor & linkages and gave them a thorough cleaning. Prior to working on this the wipers moved in both slow and fast, and the parking function worked normally. The pivots were surprisingly corrosion free and turned easily. The joint closest to the motor was pretty stiff and after cleaning all of the linkages turned freely. I lubed with lithium grease after cleaning. After reinstalling, the wipers would not move in slow or fast. I know the linkage is binding somewhere, but not sure how to correct this. I disconnected the linkage from the motor and the motor is functioning just fine. Any ideas?

it sounds like maybe you put it back together not exactly as it came apart.  Did you take lots of pictures to see the orientation of arms and order of pivot and end assembly?  Can you move the arms at all by hand when disconnected from the motor?  If its all connected in proper order they should easily wipe by moving the pivot arm that would be connected to the motor.  They should move freely, there's nothing to prevent that once disconnected from the motor.

Heres a pic of what they should look like and the orientation without the motor

 

I took pictures, and the orientation looks like your pic. Was there any kind of spacer on the motor shaft that fits between it and the linkage? Didn't recall seeing one, just a flat-washer, lock-washer, and a nut to that attaches the linkage to the motor. I'm thinking the motor shaft is canted with respect to the linkage and binding it up tight. I'll mess with it tomorrow. You have one clean car, Ritchie!

2 minutes ago, Zpenman said:

I took pictures, and the orientation looks like your pic. Was there any kind of spacer on the motor shaft that fits between it and the linkage? Didn't recall seeing one, just a flat-washer, lock-washer, and a nut to that attaches the linkage to the motor. I'm thinking the motor shaft is canted with respect to the linkage and binding it up tight. I'll mess with it tomorrow. You have one clean car, Ritchie!

 thanks but thats a shot of the section i worked on and restored, you should have seen the before 🙂

Heres the full parts from the linkage and motor arm

heres a shot of the closeup arm to the motor

I dont recall there being anything more than a nut and lock washer / flat washer to the motor conenction

 

Thanks, I didn't think there was a missing part but now I know for sure. Didn't even disassemble the linkage, so that shouldn't be a problem. 

After taking a second look at the closeup picture, I realized that the positioning of the passenger side linkage going to the pivot was wrong. I installed the linkage on the outboard side of the pivot, not the inboard side per the picture. Common sense should have told me that it was oriented wrong, but a picture is worth a thousand words. Once corrected, the wipers work like new. Thanks again for the pics, Richie, I'll be sure and take more before I tear anything else apart.