Zed Head Posted December 27, 2023 Share #25 Posted December 27, 2023 (edited) If you have the Nissan Subaru part number you might look at other applications and hit the wrecking yard. Edited December 27, 2023 by Zed Head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted December 27, 2023 Share #26 Posted December 27, 2023 Or repurpose from a similar application. https://justdifferentials.com/shop-by-category/components/shims.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted December 27, 2023 Share #27 Posted December 27, 2023 3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said: Well honestly, I find that description of "full hardened temper" to be marketing jargon at best, and completely nonsensical at worst. By that, I mean... For something to be "full hardened" it means "was made as hard as we could make it and did not temper at all after hardening". If you tempered it, it's not full hard anymore. That's the whole point of tempering. But even before that... The description of the listing says it's 1008 steel, which doesn't contain enough carbon to even BE hardenable in the first place. You need a certain amount of carbon in the mix before steel will even react to a hardening process, and 1008 is well below that threshold. So, when I see "full hardened" 1008 steel, it really makes no sense to me. I would expect 1008 to be dead soft malleable whether you TRIED to harden it or not. The plastic deformation threshold would be very low compared to something that is (honestly) heat treated hardened. For example, if you take a look at the shims from McMaster. They also offer low carbon steel shims. 1008-1010 steel. And the hardness rating is Rockwell B40. The higher carbon "spring steel" shims (1074-1095 steel) is significantly harder at Rockwell C44 or at least B85 I'm curious how hard the original spacer is. Ah yes, you're jogging my memory from grade 8 Metalworking class, harden first then temper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted December 27, 2023 Author Share #28 Posted December 27, 2023 (edited) So, it would appear that as of right now, I have options of: Buying the shim from an active auction (in Japan) Measuring the "id" and "od" of the existing shim and attempting to cross reference with shims available for other vehicle differentials - to get a suitable stack of shims that can replace the existing one Finding a suitably hard .003" shim to add to the existing one Having custom shims made Finding a suitably hard .003" may not be possible, however. Edited December 27, 2023 by inline6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted December 27, 2023 Author Share #29 Posted December 27, 2023 (edited) Hmmm. Running into a snag on the ones in Japan. Looks like they are for an R200 pinion. I assume they are different than the R180 ones. Link shows application. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-washer-adj-drve~38154-p6034.html Edited December 27, 2023 by inline6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted December 27, 2023 Share #30 Posted December 27, 2023 Canada? https://parts.nissan.ca/p/Nissan__/Washer-Adjust--Drive-Pinion-Washer-Adjusting-DRVE/89625148/38154-P6034.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted December 28, 2023 Author Share #31 Posted December 28, 2023 Thanks for the suggestions everyone! Unexpectedly, the order the shim was on has shipped! I am suspicious, however. I think they may have let the 90 day time frame they originally quoted for the "national backorder" run out and then crossed that shim off the order and shipped the rest (some side shims). I don't know that though. I will have to see what shows up. In the meantime, I was able to remove the rear pinion bearing today and free the existing shim for measuring and test filing: Shaft collar side and gear side, respectively: The OD is 53-54 mm and the ID is 35 mm. With regard to filing, I ran a fine single cut file across the surface of the left picture very lightly and it immediately started removing the dark coloring from the outer edge of the shim. I want to say that where the "collar" contacts... or sits against the shim, it is now lower (compressed?) than the outer edges of the shim. I did not want to, nor did I file more than a few light strokes on the surface of the shim. I also note some very light chaffing on the surface of the shim. I suspect that would be hard to achieve on a "hard" shim. I think this thing is actually pretty soft, for whatever that is worth. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted December 29, 2023 Author Share #32 Posted December 29, 2023 Just spent a couple of hours trying to find shims from other applications that would work, but I didn't find anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted December 29, 2023 Share #33 Posted December 29, 2023 Well if you don't have any other option, try cutting out some of that .003 softer material. At least to confirm the overall shim thickness you need. If you can confirm the total thickness, it shouldn't matter how you achieve that total. For example, take the total, cut it in half, and buy two new shims that come to that dimension. Or 75%-25%. Point is... Whatever you can find available. You don't need to be tied to the original shim thickness and a .003 augment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted December 29, 2023 Author Share #34 Posted December 29, 2023 (edited) Yep - understood. I found this listing of part numbers (Subaru) - only the yellow highlighted ones sh ow as available: To make matters worse, I measured my shim's thickness today while off of the pinion shaft, and it is only 0.126" thick - not the 0.140" I measured before. So, the one that is coming (if it is coming) is many sizes thicker. I wonder if it would be a bad idea to surface grind the new washer to bring it to the necessary thickness after determining what that is with the shim stock from Amazon? Edited December 29, 2023 by inline6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted December 29, 2023 Share #35 Posted December 29, 2023 6 hours ago, inline6 said: it is only 1.260" thick - not the .140" I measured before. Let me just say: ....... I'm going a bit crazy...... I will NEVER understand what the americans have with those inches, 1/4 1/8 3/32 pfff... (sigh) Why not mm it's metric it's simple!! What do you mean with: it's only 1.260 thick ... to me that's A LOT more than 0.140 ???? and.. " means inches.. Right?? Oh man... am i glad i only had to learn about meters and mm cm Km Mm (I just invented the Mega Meter! 😉 ) Forgive me for getting so annoying!! (I think it's sad that the change to metric was so difficult to do, i believe the canadians did this better? They have Km not miles for example?) (Btw.. you guys also use a point were we use a comma.. and visa versa... does also complicate things so 1,230 are twelfhundred and thirty items.. (to you ) but overhere that's one and twentythree hundreds of a item.. 1.230 are twelfhundredand thirty items of something.) I always think of the guy in europe that ordered a boat in the USA.. he thought that he would get a big boat (in meters) but got one in feet! 🙈 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted December 29, 2023 Share #36 Posted December 29, 2023 3 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said: I think it's sad that the change to metric was so difficult to do, i believe the canadians did this better? They have Km not miles for example?) Canadians have to be fluent in both systems of measurement, it's the only way to do business with our neighbours to the south (Imperial) and the rest of the world (Metric). Although metric seems to be making inroads as I know Ford has been using metric fasteners for many years now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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