After you get things put back together you should get the "Smoke replacement kit".

[emoji1787]

I’ll take my wife to the parts store and send her in to get it.


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Here's anothe pic that might help a bit. To [mention=19298]Zed Head[/mention]'s point, the switch on the left is the same as yours, on the right is a later design. On your switch the large gauge black wire on the senter post is headlight power in and the faded red/white heavy gauge above it is headlight power out. On the left side is the parking light circuit - solid green wire in the center is power in, the green/white wire above it is power out. The unwired posts at the bottom are for the off positions of the rockers.

Here they are. They came out a little easier than the first time. Is that a lubrication on the top?


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Here's anothe pic that might help a bit. To [mention=19298]Zed Head[/mention]'s point, the switch on the left is the same as yours, on the right is a later design. On your switch the large gauge black wire on the senter post is headlight power in and the faded red/white heavy gauge above it is headlight power out. On the left side is the parking light circuit - solid green wire in the center is power in, the green/white wire above it is power out. The unwired posts at the bottom are for the off positions of the rockers.

Here they are. They came out a little easier than the first time. Is that a lubrication on the top?


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27 minutes ago, z8987 said:

Here they are. They came out a little easier than the first time. Is that a lubrication on the top?


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Not lubrication, just a stain on a very old switch. There is no lubrication inside the switch unless one adds a tiny drop of grease on the back of the rocker for the nubbin to rub against. As best as I can recall, that switch came out of #1818 that was parted out by one of our members.

Edited September 15, 20231 yr by jfa.series1

Did anyone ever recreate the Nubbins? I know somebody was working on that

Here's a good one that I used. It's older PDF so you'll have to download it. It's clean I promise. 😇

repairing-240z-combination-kamikazeracing-org.pdf

Edited September 15, 20231 yr by siteunseen

27 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Did anyone ever recreate the Nubbins? I know somebody was working on that

It's in that thread I linked above.  I made somebody angry with my naked hostility.

 

Whoa, whoa, whoa...

naked hostility? That's my first tattoo.

Actually I think it was SteveJ that exhibited naked hostility.

Zed, You were properly chastised for not knowing enough ways to skin a cat. 

2 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Whoa, whoa, whoa...

naked hostility? That's my first tattoo.

Hahahahahaha!!!!!

No, we don't want to see it.   

Hahahahahaha!!!!!
No, we don't want to see it.   

Maybe like the boobs one there’s another X-rated thread to be had here? “Original Naked Hostility Thread”!!

Mr Sitester can start the ball rolling - if it offends, then don’t open the thread! :p

On topic - I’m with Mr Jfa - when I took my switch apart in the kitchen, it shot lots of small things across the room and I spent an hour on a search and rescue mission!! I never got it back together in a working state again as the tabs i bent back broke off the second time I tried to reassemble it. You have one shot at this from what I experienced.

Have you measured the resistance when you turn it on? Check and let us know.

You may find that it’s high enough to heat it when 10A+ is going through it with the lights connected “naked” to it. But when attired with a relay drawing 0.1-0.2A it would be like the Fonz - cool and happy! (Showing my age, I know). Why not test it with a relay and potentially save yourself the hassle of having to open it up?

I don’t like electrical contact resistance ANYWHERE, but IMHO at 200mA, you’re highly unlikely to see a problem there again.

I cleaned it up. Lots of gunk in that little thing. Everything works well, except now my blinkers don’t work. Everything is back to its original configuration. The new relay harness is not installed. All the fuses are good. Seriously confused


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