I have two spots on the drivers side floor pan that have rusted thru (I stuck a pencil thru each of them). Am wondering about the best fix approach since body work is definitely not my strong suit. These holes definitely do not require a full floor pan replacement IMHO. Will try to show in accompanying pics.     

 

 

 

P.S.  The second floor pan photo looks more wrecked than it really is. It was just treated with Evapo Rust and the metal is pretty solid around the hole location.

I have found when the metal is as heavily pitted as that is, there will be more holes when you get rid of all the rust. I would get it really clean and then make some small metal patches that took care of most of the really thin areas

Thanks Patcon, I'll remove some more material around those 2 holes (and other rust spots) and see where i stand then. Appreciate the advice as always.

To be on the safe side you could/should chip up all of that original sound deadener, chance are you will find more than the couple you know about.

That sound deadener was applied over top of bare metal.

5 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

That sound deadener was applied over top of bare metal.

Thanks grannyknot, didn't realize that that was the case. Hate to lose the sound deadener but I suspect you are correct as to it being a source of current/future rust problems. Trying to look on the bright side, I'm not just losing sound deadener, I'm gaining another project!!!  Comment is much appreciated. Working on bumpers right now but will try and post what I find in a bit.

Per suggestions from Patcon and grannynot I've pulled up some of the floor deadening material around the hole in the drivers side floor pan. Most of it came up readily with the help of a large flat blade screwdriver and a stiff bladed putty knife. There was no rust where the tar material was still firmly attached to the floor but in all areas where there was any separation there was some rust. I went over the area with a worn down wire wheel on my Dremel which cleaned it up pretty nicely. It looks like the main problem is still with the yellow painted patch where the pencil was inserted in the first photo. Attached is a progress photo. Lighting is not the best in that small space. Will continue until all is removed. Just wanted to post an update for anyone else looking at this situation themselves. More spaces left to uncover. To be continued.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

swflaz i highly recommend any one of the dry ice methods of removing tar based sound deadening.  you can google many videos on youtube.  Some use the alcohol method others just drop the ice straight on if its small enough pellets.  What happens is the dry ice quick flash freezes the tar and its so brittle it come up in sheets.  the ice sublimates (straight to gas) so its no mess really just a little wipe down.  Beats the hell out of scraping with a screw driver or any of the heat it up methods and all that sticky mess.

one of dozens if not hundreds of examples

 

 

 

Wow that is really effective. Appreciate the info. (slow to respond since i was out of town for a while). Thanks, Richie G.

No worries. One thing to make sure is that you take out all the little rubber pieces and grommets those will get destroyed if you let the dry ice freeze them

I'll give it a  try minus the rubber bits, thanks.

An easy way to get rid of those holes..  Take a holesaw and.. as you can't center them with the center bit.. first make a hole in a flat piece of wood and then hold the wood over the hole in the floor of your z.. then dril a nice round hole out of the bad rust hole.. ad a rubber lid in the hole and your ready! 😉 

check the rusty hole for what diameter drill you need.  NO welder/welding needed.