Quarter panel new outer rubber ...not fitting in the channel!!!

[MH77280Z]

Guys, seen few videos and following the directions but there is too much rubber to align the 4 holes. The videos say taller edge on the outside. I am thinking to flip it and use the taller edge inside what you think. This is a nightmare and i have already got too small scratches to the new paint!!! what to do?

[cgsheen1]

Nope, you have it correct - taller edge on the outside. The quarter window is meant to push BACK and IN to set the gasket properly and it's generally difficult (nope, near impossible) to do by yourself. BUT, it should never cause scratching paint... (the gasket should always keep the metal frame away from the body - so are you sure your frame is correct?)

I usually start with the window set about 1/4" - 1/2" away from being flush with the mount tabs and forward, then push it AFT and INBOARD while someone else tries to get a screw started. Unfortunately the Precision weatherstrip is not the easiest to work with...

[kcpope]

Just did this 2 weeks ago, also using the precision seals. Yes, taller lip should be towards outside of car. Yes, required nearly ALL of my weight to press the window deep into the pocket and attempt to start the screw. So you’re on the right track.

Only thing I could think is that maybe you didn’t clean off enough of the old seal or have too much glue built up so it’s becoming too tight[emoji2373] Just throwing out ideas…


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[Terrapin Z]

I used a long wide, padded ratchet strap though the hatch. Soapy water, patients, and a helper to pull it back and get some screws in. 

It worked well and no scratches. Still not a fun job. (I did clean off all the old glue and debris off the frame.) 

[MH77280Z]

18 minutes ago, cgsheen1 said:

Nope, you have it correct - taller edge on the outside. The quarter window is meant to push BACK and IN to set the gasket properly and it's generally difficult (nope, near impossible) to do by yourself. BUT, it should never cause scratching paint... (the gasket should always keep the metal frame away from the body - so are you sure your frame is correct?)

I usually start with the window set about 1/4" - 1/2" away from being flush with the mount tabs and forward, then push it AFT and INBOARD while someone else tries to get a screw started. Unfortunately the Precision weatherstrip is not the easiest to work with...

Scratch was an accident when I pulled it out. Generally when I am sliding it in it dont scratch. I put some silicon on the rubber to lubricate it. It helps sliding it inside more comfortably but risk slipping 🙂 I am more careful now.

[kcpope]

Yep, forgot to mention the soapy water. I used that as well, works well, and doesn’t leave a mess.


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[MH77280Z]

14 minutes ago, kcpope said:

Just did this 2 weeks ago, also using the precision seals. Yes, taller lip should be towards outside of car. Yes, required nearly ALL of my weight to press the window deep into the pocket and attempt to start the screw. So you’re on the right track.

Only thing I could think is that maybe you didn’t clean off enough of the old seal or have too much glue built up so it’s becoming too tight Just throwing out ideas…


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I was concerned of putting too much force and shattering the glass!!! Also when u do push it inside all the way, i can hardly see any rubber on the top and the lower rubber actually bends outside a bit. Is it normal?

[kcpope]

I’ll take some pics of mine when I get home so you can see. Yes, it really squeezes the seal tight and that outer lip will deform outward and should form a tight seal.

As you’re pressing and installing each screw, just keep an eye on the seal and maybe using a soft plastic pick or hook of sorts, use it to gently pull that outer lip outwards if need be. That said, I don’t recall having to do this much at all.

I’ll take pics in a bit…


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[Richie G]

I literally just finished the driver side yesterday and here's some pics.  The precision rubbers work great if you are patient and steady.  You won't break the glass if you apply even pressure inward and towards the rear at the same time.  i was able to do this by myself put using one hand to press on the glass and the other to set the screws by reaching around.  The trick is as mentioned, set the glass about 1 inch or so forward of the screw holes and the trick is to get the corner peice set first.  Only set enough screw to catch them move on to the bottom back then two front.  Remember to only set the screw enough so it catches at first then move on to the remaining screws so you have wiggle room to move it until all 4 are caught then you can easily tighten down.

[MH77280Z]

I was able to set the bottom front screw just like you mentioned. Let me try to do this with the rear one first as that requires more pressure first and then the front ones might align. Will report back...

[Patcon]

@Richie G

Those are excellent pictures! Very helpful for the corner seals. Thanks.

I have been procrastinating on this too.

[Richie G]

@Patcon

Thanks, those top corner seals were tough to find, had to go to Norm at Zeddsaver.  He's got good stuff but a bit on the pricey side.

Little by little im getting through the entire interior.  Lots left to do but very enjoyable.  Next big thing is tackling some poke throughs in the floor boards.  The PO decided it was best to just lay a new soundproof over the original without taking care of the surface rust underneath.  Well you can guess how that turned out lol.  I don't think the holes will be large enough to require new pans but we'll see.