4/75 Datsun 280Z; Leaf Green, CA market, 250K miles, Long Term Project 03/2023-

[HusseinHolland]

Not related to my 280Z - I started making some YT slideshows of the (Honda K24) drivetrain conversion work on the Bertone X1/9 

 

X1/9 K24 Frame Mods

X1/9 K24 install mods II

X1/9 K24 Install Mods III

X1/9 K24 PLM RAM Header Mods & Install

RBB plenum mods, Coolant line mods, shifter linkage

 

Edited January 20 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Started framing the platform. This will add 4' to the inside of the garage, which will mean the Datsun will fit once the Fiat is sold.  I can't build a real extension on the garage, the town codes make such an addition on a non-conforming structure. I can however have a 'patio" without having to get a permit or be subject to the architectural review board - so I will be pouring a 16x18' or 16x20' slab behind the garage, just has to be staggered 10' in from the property line at the side & back.  

Cleared the back wall of the garage of the shelving & workbenches. I'll be removing about 13' of the inside wall, so I'll be building a temporary wall to support the beam & upper wall whilst I open it up.

The existing header is not exactly healthy construction

 

Edited February 5 by HusseinHolland

[Patcon]

That's not even really "header like" 😀

[HusseinHolland]

8 hours ago, Patcon said:

That's not even really "header like" 😀

Yeah - pretty scary considering the weight that's bearing on it. It looks like someone jacked the beam & added a chock to lift it up again. 

I'll be feel much better when that's gone - especially since I'll be walking under it soon.

 

@patcon - would you have a recommendation for the beam? Can I use double 2x12" over a 12' span?  Trying to figure out if I can carry the lumber myself in my truck, or if this is something I'll have to spend more $$ on. I could always add a 4x4 center post if that would keep the header depth in the realm of wood I can readily buy without custom order. 

Edited February 5 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Sunny day today, and projected for tomorrow  - so I drove the Z to work.

EDIT - forgot to mention that I typically get at least 2 or 3 people everyday I have it out & about that comment on how much they love it. It is an iconic design, for sure.

I hadn't started it at all in the past month or so, so the battery was flat. I I had to jump it with my compact booster pack for my lunch break, and again when leaving school. By the time I got home, it was charged enough to start right up. I've put it in the garage on the trickle charger to get it back to a healthier state. I'll have to figure out a way to add a quick disconnect terminal - I have that in the Fiat, since that also sits for months at a time. Bit more awkward in the Z, because I added the battery mounted fuse block.

The stitching on the headrest looks good to me.

The X1/9 is going on BaT beginning of April, so once that's gone I'll be able to garage the Z

Got the sheathing finished, except for the strips I need to add around the window opening 

Added bracing to the studs like this. Not sure I really need to add the ones at 66" that I was planning, everything feels pretty tight now.

With my tool box & the benches out of the way, the Z is a better fit inside. Still close quarters, but I could work on it inside if I had to.

Edited February 6 by HusseinHolland

[Patcon]

13 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

Yeah - pretty scary considering the weight that's bearing on it. It looks like someone jacked the beam & added a chock to lift it up again. 

I'll be feel much better when that's gone - especially since I'll be walking under it soon.

 

@patcon - would you have a recommendation for the beam? Can I use double 2x12" over a 12' span?  Trying to figure out if I can carry the lumber myself in my truck, or if this is something I'll have to spend more $$ on. I could always add a 4x4 center post if that would keep the header depth in the realm of wood I can readily buy without custom order. 

Can you post up a sketch of the structure with dimensions and I'll try to size something up? Or you can PM me...

[HusseinHolland]

13 hours ago, Patcon said:

Can you post up a sketch of the structure with dimensions and I'll try to size something up? Or you can PM me...

Thank you - I'll make a sketch with accurate measurements of the span & PM you. It may only be a 10' opening.

[HusseinHolland]

Started removing the siding & sheathing on the inside. Added the temporary support for the beam. 

Hot mess up here. I guess maybe the center beam was added later on? The cross beam above the top plate is actual 4x4". Can't understand why it would be placed as it is. When we bought the property 25 years ago, the garage had no attic, just the shallow (2'?) planked area seen here, and at the front end. There were very few rafters, and the entire garage had a serious tilt. There are metal tie plates in the side walls that connect the east & west ends together with cable. Back then, I tied the north east corner to a Cedar adjacent, and used a come-along to pull it square(ish) over the course of a month or so, then added tie plates & rafters. I can't say I followed any actual plan back then, I just tried to make it more rigid.

Drawing of the west end wall as it exists. All the studs and plates are 2.5x4", 24" OC. The opening will be 12'. from the floor to the beam is 90", 96" to top of beam, 102" to top of 4"x4" cross beam

[HusseinHolland]

Still in Garage Mode.

Many thanks to @Patcon for his input.

Supported the outside wall & removed the studs that fall between the (just under) 12' opening. I started on the left -  I jacked the post until I heard the top plate/beam creak & stopped. With that I was able to sawsall the nails & the studs came out with no effort.

I checked the king & added jack for level. 2nd jack will go in after I get the 2nd LVL header up. I have fastenmasters 3.5" structural screws to tie the two plates once they are situated.

Added a support on the right, and removed the one stud there. Cut 3" off the ridge beam so it will sit flush with the LVL header

The conundrum here is how to get the 2nd plate up. If you look at the above pic, there is only room to pivot the 2nd plate straight between the beam & existing new header. That doesn't work when both jacks are in place, as the header had to be angled to navigate into the space. I guess I can screw the 1st header temporarily to the support poles, then move the left king & jack over enough to swing the 2nd in place. Can't really see any other way of accomplishing this, working by myself. I don't have anyone around at the moment that can assist me, and the space issue would still be the same problem.

Just enough room for the Z

Edited February 9 by HusseinHolland

[Patcon]

Yes, we don't put jack in until after. Typically we'd get a ply to the top and use big cabinet clamps to hold it. Maybe run a couple of GRKs down from the top. Then add the second ply. Jacks get added later and cut a hair long so they have to be driven end for a nice snug fit. Too snug and you will split them drving them in

Another way to do this is add two blocks one on each end on the kings about waste high or a little higher. Set both plies there and gang them up. Then lift one end and add a block. Then the other. Seesaw it up near the top then use cabinet clamps or ratchet straps to top it out. Then add the jacks.

[HusseinHolland]

8 hours ago, Patcon said:

Yes, we don't put jack in until after. Typically we'd get a ply to the top and use big cabinet clamps to hold it. Maybe run a couple of GRKs down from the top. Then add the second ply. Jacks get added later and cut a hair long so they have to be driven end for a nice snug fit. Too snug and you will split them drving them in

Another way to do this is add two blocks one on each end on the kings about waste high or a little higher. Set both plies there and gang them up. Then lift one end and add a block. Then the other. Seesaw it up near the top then use cabinet clamps or ratchet straps to top it out. Then add the jacks.

Got it. I'll anchor the ply that's up, & then take at least the left jack out. Adding blocks to see-saw the ply in place would be safer for me than the way I did the first one.

Edited February 9 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Got the second ply in after work. One issue I missed yesterday was that I only cut 2.75" off the beam, instead of the 3" required for the two plates to squeeze in. Fixed that, then got the ply up in the ballpark, and used a pry bar to get the ply started behind the beam. After that I was able to see-saw the ply up level, then I walloped the left end in until it was flush on the right side king - put the left side jack back in, and just added some screws to hold the header in place & level. Tomorrow I'll wrap that up & add the secondary jacks on either side 

Since I don't have any g clamps deep enough to reach over halfway up the ply, I'm using the long pry bar leveraged through the g clamps to push the two firmly together at the top, and I will screw the beams together this way, working my way along the top first, then the middle & bottom