Patcon Posted February 10 Share #49 Posted February 10 The flatloks will pull it up. Just make sure you have it straight before you gang it up. It won't want to change shape after that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted February 10 Author Share #50 Posted February 10 12 hours ago, Patcon said: The flatloks will pull it up. Just make sure you have it straight before you gang it up. It won't want to change shape after that Thank you. I have them leveled at this point - I cannot find a nail chart from BuildOnCenter for their LVL, however I assume this would be similar to other brands. A google search suggests minimum 2 rows 12" OC for 9.5 LVL. I figured I'd do 3 rows, 12" OC staggered 1" intervals I found this chart for murphyplywood : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted February 10 Share #51 Posted February 10 No reason to do 3 rows. You could probably do 2 rows at 16" O.C. and be fine Here it is; 24" O.C. https://www.diyhomecenter.com/media/pdf/fastenmaster-flatlok.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted February 11 Author Share #52 Posted February 11 (edited) Finished up the header, added the double jacks. I went 2 row 16" OC for the structural screws, based on the advice from the local lumber yard I bought the LVL from. I don't think my drill would have liked 3 rows, I had to stop halfway & let the drill cool down, even with lubricating the screws. Joist hanger placed on the ridge beam. Started putting up foam insulation for the walls & roof Edited February 11 by HusseinHolland 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted February 11 Share #53 Posted February 11 (edited) I have two ½ impacts, one battery and one corded, even they need the occasional rest when running Lok's. We usually start them with a hammer. Some jobs we'll run 100-200 in the drop sills. Earmuffs are nice... Edited February 11 by Patcon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted February 12 Author Share #54 Posted February 12 (edited) On 2/10/2024 at 9:20 AM, Patcon said: No reason to do 3 rows. You could probably do 2 rows at 16" O.C. and be fine Here it is; 24" O.C. https://www.diyhomecenter.com/media/pdf/fastenmaster-flatlok.pdf Missed this yesterday. Thank you. I don't know what a drop sill is, however running 100's of those screws sounds like an exhausting time! Odds & ends today. Finished up the roof insulation , just have to add some foam to some seams where there is gappage. Put another 3/4 ply on the floor on the left Finished the sealing of the window exterior, and the sheathing up to the edge of the rough opening. We have 5-7" or maybe more snow coming Tuesday, so I need to stow the new siding, etc , tomorrow after school. Have to make sure the Fiat is not being left outside the bodyshop, if they are not finished tomorrow. Edited February 12 by HusseinHolland 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted February 16 Author Share #55 Posted February 16 (edited) So the snow came Tuesday There were two 40+ ft pines behind my garage, on my neighbor's property - one came down yesterday while I was in the garage around 4:30 - I heard the ripping and crash where it came down alongside the front of my neighbor's home. Just missed wiping the whole front off. He wasn't home - so I called to prep him for the mess he would have to face. I was working on repurposing the old siding & facia trim on the short edge of the addition. I have new siding for the West face. The remaining pine (to the right in my pic, behind the bamboo) is mostly dead, so he is getting it removed ASAP Edited February 21 by HusseinHolland Correction 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted February 17 Author Share #56 Posted February 17 (edited) Added the positive terminal cutoff switch Edit- I had to bend it 90°, it was straight, and due to the offset, it would have put the fuse panel too high and hit the hood on closure. Started wiring on this wall, and sheathing/pegboard for the upper half. I've never used pegboard before, but it seems like a good idea for all the crap I have that was hanging off of nails for my old wall. Edited February 17 by HusseinHolland 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted February 17 Author Share #57 Posted February 17 (edited) Had almost 2 hours after Pilates with the Mrs. this afternoon, so I managed to get the 9" deep shelving up on the end wall, about 10-in inside spacing between them, except for the bottom one that is a little over a foot to allow for gallons of coolant etc., Edited February 18 by HusseinHolland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted February 18 Author Share #58 Posted February 18 (edited) Primed the end wall. It's was about 20° in the garage at that time, so I'm not expecting it to dry anytime soon. I think I'm going to look for a light gray paint for the top coat. Added more foam and sealing foam behind where the pegboard is going, since it can't have that layer of sheathing like the bottom half. I did do the same on the left side. Cutting all the large pieces of wood outside, it was up to about 25°, so not absolutely frigid for short durations. Pegboard on the right is also done now. The panel below it is not secured yet, I still have to do some more wiring. I forgot to add an outlet to the outside wall. So I will run that through that North wall, behind that lower sheathing. Did a little more priming here and there to even it out. Have to do the inside facia for the window trim - I'm using 1x3, the old stuff was that size, so can I reuse some of it, and I bought two 8 ft lengths to do the top and bottom Edited February 19 by HusseinHolland 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted February 20 Author Share #59 Posted February 20 Added some more trim to the exterior framing Started on making the bench. setting it at 32", so that the added vice height will be around 40" or so framing for the window trim, sill cut, side sections cut from old 1x3 1x3 top plate installed cut & fitted the north end wall plywood. I'll make shelves for this side, 9" deep to edge of pegboard new wiring box (next to power strip) for power supply & switch that feeds the new outlets and ceiling light fixture, have to decide where to tie it into existing circuitry. At some point I need to install a new mains panel, with 240v supply. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveE Posted February 20 Share #60 Posted February 20 Looking good Love it! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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