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4/75 Datsun 280Z; Leaf Green, CA market, 250K miles, Long Term Project 03/2023-


HusseinHolland

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Posted (edited)

Small amount of work accomplished today, between chores & visit from a good family friend who had moved upstate.

Go the junctions on the center beam connected for the attic lighting branch, the overhead lighting, and the outlet on the me main door post. Also ran the 3/4 conduit from that box up & over to the south wall, where it will ultimately connect to the feeder branch coming down the south west corner post.

Separated all the 12/2 and 14/3 wiring into their own conduit. I worked in layers starting with the grounds, then neutrals, then travellers, switch outputs and finally the hot feeds 

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Had to make schematics for each junction, to make sure I didn't mis-connect anything, having a 3way switched circuit for one branch of the lighting makes me check 3 times at least. Hopefully get more done than this tomorrow.

Edited by HusseinHolland
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7 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

Small amount of work accomplished today, between chores & visit from a good family friend who had moved upstate.

Go the junctions on the center beam connected for the attic lighting branch, the overhead lighting, and the outlet on the me main door post. Also ran the 3/4 conduit from that box up & over to the south wall, where it will ultimately connect to the feeder branch coming down the south west corner post.

Separated all the 12/2 and 14/3 wiring into their own conduit. I worked in layers starting with the grounds, then neutrals, then travellers, switch outputs and finally the hot feeds 

PXL_20240504_185459881.jpg

PXL_20240504_191322606.jpg

PXL_20240504_204349630.jpg

Had to make schematics for each junction, to make sure I didn't mis-connect anything, having a 3way switched circuit for one branch of the lighting makes me check 3 times at least. Hopefully get more done than this tomorrow.

Work is coming along nicely.  Just noticed your Volvo Hatch in the driveway.  I always liked these -- except for the Interior (the word 'plain' doesn't do it justice).

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Namerow said:

Work is coming along nicely.  Just noticed your Volvo Hatch in the driveway.  I always liked these -- except for the Interior (the word 'plain' doesn't do it justice).

It's a great car - interior is quite unremarkable (Ford era Volvo), however for my size it is extremely comfortable & pedal position, etc., is perfect.  I don't have any interior pics besides a couple from when I replaced the upholstery with leather.  It is 6 speed manual. I converted it to AWD after putting a larger turbo/tune in it, as FWD just gave too much wheelspin .

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Plenty of exterior pics, it's a good looking form 😁

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Edited by HusseinHolland
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On 5/5/2024 at 8:31 AM, Namerow said:

That's a nice-looking car.  Like the wheels. Your leather seat covers with the contrasting stitching help to liven up the interior 🙂.

Back in 2016 I went to the Tail of The Dragon with 30 other C30's from across the country - the car handles really well in this type driving

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For the time being, I added a junction box to replace the old single fuse sub panel, and added 12AWG from there to the new sub panel, to one of the phases.  I understand doing this is not to any code. I only have the few circuits running off it, until I get the 6AWG underground feed in place, then I'll properly wire the sub panel with the two phases and connect the 240 branch.

Added a ground from the panel to the conduit used to supply the 120v supply

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Wiring to the 240 outlet above, waiting for the 10AWG individual wires, then I'll wire the receptacle

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added a GFCI receptacle & a regular on the load side, by the door, separate fused branch from the branches in the west addition and what will be on the south wall. I will continue that branch into the north wall when that addition happens

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All the conduit tidied up on this side now

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After that - the (Electric) power steering pump on the C30 is on the way out (130K miles) - making a nasty scream under load (cornering).

Looking online, the FoMoCo part is pretty indestructible, except for the lower shaft bearing, which is not in an oil bath like the upper one.

The unit is not intended to be serviced, so a Filter cutter is required to cleanly cut off the motor cap. after that, the reservoir is removed by stretching the Oetiker clamp, then the pump is removed, followed by a drive gear , c clip & washer - then the motor shaft can be tapped out of the upper bearing.

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bearing destruction

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New Timken bearing

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installed

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more to come

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Cork/rubber composite gasket arrived last night, so I changed it out after work

The silicone one (Milkfab is responsive to my inquiry) has torn in several places - note that I did not over torque the cover, in fact they probably could have been snugged tighter, as it took minimal effort using a 1/4 short rachet to crack them free.

Main tear that was pushing out in the left rear corner - note that they spec a bead of silicone to adhere the gasket to the cover. That was allowed to set up prior to install.

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Other internal tears

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I thoroughly cleaned out all the silicone from the gasket retention grooves in the cover. I could find nothing in the factory manual that referenced using any sort of silicone or other agent to secure the stock type gasket. 

Noting the staggered offset of the gasket at the gear end

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Had to leave work early as when I went to fill the Z tank, gas started pouring out past the sender oring 😭

I assumed I had not seated it correctly, which seemed hard to fathom, but it must have rolled when I was tightening the lock plate.

I got home after losing prolly 3 gallons or more - the needle had dropped from around 2/3 to under half after the 20 min drive. I was praying I didn't pass anyone smoking with an open window - I'm pretty sure there was a fuel mist in my wake.

I drained about 4 gallons to get the level below the sender. Couldn't see anything wrong with the o- ring, but I reinstalled with the original as it appeared & felt to be a thicker wall.

Adapted the  harness 

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Put the gas back in, and the big leak was gone, however the new sender (off AliExpress) was leaking around the ground pin. Now I was wishing I hadn't mutilated the original sender when I cut the wires off. When I did that I yanked on the gauge terminal and it pulled out of the sender. 

So now I had to fix the original sender just so I could put it back in until I get a new replacement quality unit. 

I riveted a Volvo coil terminal connector using the original nylon spacer and the inner seal seat for the gauge terminal. Installed, no more leaks

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That done, I wanted to take care of the appearance at the tank and the rear valance as they both looked kind of s*****, and I'm going to the Carlisle Import Show in the AM . 

So I sprayed the tank with 3M chip protection, then after an hour and a half, the 3M undercoat. Metal splash guard sprayed separately, and installed after I took this pic.

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1 hour ago, HusseinHolland said:

I'm going to the Carlisle Import Show in the AM . 

Awww man. I usually go to that show, but I'm not gonna make it this year!  :ermm: Kinda snuck up on me, and I just can't swing it. Aaaaargh.

Would have really enjoyed meeting you.

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2 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Awww man. I usually go to that show, but I'm not gonna make it this year!  :ermm: Kinda snuck up on me, and I just can't swing it. Aaaaargh.

Would have really enjoyed meeting you.

I go every year - maybe next year then. I'd love to meet you, and look over your Z & get some other ideas from the later releases 😁 

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