I thought they'd be taller?

32 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I thought they'd be taller?

No, that's it. 30" total length. Power Post

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

I thought they'd be taller?

I've heard people say that about you.

Oh wait... That's not true at all.     

4 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

No, that's it. 30" total length. Power Post

So 30" above grade? Or is a significant portion buried?

8 hours ago, Patcon said:

So 30" above grade? Or is a significant portion buried?

About 8" is buried.

So 22" above grade. Outlet ends up about 16-18" up. So I might have to get on all fours to plug something in. I was hoping outlet height would be 28-30 for easier access

So, of course there were problems. I should never have buried the conduit before I had the actual wires run through it. I had to dig up the West end & cut the conduit so I could feed the 12/3 through the bends. I ran fish tape from the other end, and then tied the 12/3 to it & pulled it back to the 1st post. 

Tomorrow I have to install the 2nd post here, then I'll fill the trench

Edited September 6, 2024Sep 6 by HusseinHolland

6 minutes ago, Patcon said:

So 22" above grade. Outlet ends up about 16-18" up. So I might have to get on all fours to plug something in. I was hoping outlet height would be 28-30 for easier access

From the install video

Filled the trench & graded the ground. Wired the receptacles today 

West side (end of run) 

South side

With sliding cover down.

350Z is now nestled in back on my new slab

Going over things that need attention in the house to make it presentable for sale. The downstairs bathroom has needed gutting for years, since we're selling in the next year, we are just sprucing it up.

Took out the old vanity top & sink

New vanity top w/integrated sink, faucet, new handles, towel racks, etc. Don't want to spend to much, as whomever buys will likely rip it all out anyway.

 

 

Working on installing Volvo C30 seats in the 740 pickup. The rails are about 2" narrower than the 740 rails. Not enough to be able to fit brackets on the outside of each rail, and be able to get bolts through. I set the seat position based on the inboard rail, drilled a mount hole through the rail to secure the inner rear corner. After that I was able to square & level the seat, fabricate mount ears for the other three corners, attach the seat belt reel, and get the DS seat bolted in.

Tried to get the memory seat module to operate - it wants CAN I/O, which I can't provide

So, I stripped the seat down & hardwired the fore/aft motor to allow me to set the mount points

Rail offset to the inside allows me to fit mount brackets

Spacing on the inside, clears console

Using the 350Z seat rail mount remnants that I cut off when installing them in the 280Z

C channel for the forward outer, wanted a reasonable overlap section onto the rail for welding

Tab cut from the stock C30 rail mounts for the forward inner

Belt reel fitted with minor mods

Notch outer seat panel to clear belt reel

So the tricky part of this install is going to be the wiring.  I have to figure out how to bypass the CAN controller aspect & power the switches / relays so that the stock switches will operate the seat. I don't really care about not having the various memory options.

Googling ways & means of either emulating(?) the CAN signals, or bypassing it all, I found this thread on Matthews Volvo Site. Pretty helpful, difference for me is the Seat module is more complex than that earlier one from an S60. Simply bypassing the ground relay is more complicated.

I used Google Lens to look up the relays on the board -

 

 

with that I drew out the relay schematic, and used my multimeter to determine the switch connections. I don't know which is (-) & which is (+) on the connected pathway illustrated at the bottom left

Any suggestions welcomed!

 

Edited September 20, 2024Sep 20 by HusseinHolland