Jump to content

IGNORED

4/75 Datsun 280Z; Leaf Green, CA market, 250K miles, Long Term Project 03/2023-


HusseinHolland

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...

Finally resolved the exhaust fumes in car issue - I added the downturn tailpipe (2.5" SS ) I found either on here on another Z forum, I forget. Drove it around to determine if it worked - it did - so I tacked it in place 

PXL_20241031_173705332.jpg

PXL_20241031_175452248.jpg

Didn't care for the look of the single tip, so I added a fake next to it, staggered slightly 

PXL_20241031_182944013.jpg

PXL_20241031_182949244.MP.jpg

PXL_20241031_185433983.jpg

Much happier driving around now, can have both windows open! 😀

 

Edited by HusseinHolland
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Took the Z out for a drive yesterday - it was warm enough, and no salt on the roads yet. C30 is out of commission with a broken clutch master cylinder link rod.

PXL_20241218_171339434.MP.jpg

spacer.png

Steering column, instrument cluster, all have to come out to access the pedal aassembly

spacer.png

I have the pedal assembly out. I drilled out & tapped to M6x1 the fixed pedal pivot so it came be serviced without quite so much drama

PXL_20241219_220234146.MP~2.jpg

PXL_20241219_221457336-2.jpg

PXL_20241219_221459795.jpg

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Back on the C30 - New clutch master arrived yesterday - normally only takes 2 days via USPS from CT, this one took over a week. Anyway, the weather has not been conducive to working outside, either way too cold or snowing. Today it was sunny & 34º, so I took advantage of that to put the car back together

Sold under Sachs brand - unit is the same manufacturer as originally installed - FTE - just with metal rod instead of the plastic mine hadpxl_20241227_172521406-jpg.93172

pxl_20241227_172525851-jpg.93173

test fit in painted bracket

pxl_20241227_172958488-jpg.93174

So, the bracket & MC cannot be installed as one, even without the pedal in play. I had to insert the MC in the firewall opening first, then position the pedal bracket, then set/lock the MC in the bracket.

Left side mount points are tricky to accesspxl_20241227_181149817-jpg.93176

Pedal set in bracket

pxl_20241227_182636457-jpg.93177

Link rod bushing set into pedal

pxl_20241227_182645676-jpg.93178

With that located, I attached the hydraulic line, feed tube & switch connector

pxl_20241227_180220408-jpg.93175

Immobilizer switch harness routed

pxl_20241227_200935693-jpg.93183

Over-center mechanism  in place - I used a tie wrap to hold the spring compressed, then set the mechanism & cut the tie wrappxl_20241227_184834395-jpg.93181

pxl_20241227_184828546-jpg.93180

Then I bled the clutch - had to remove the airbox, and the rad hose/engine harness support bracket to access the bleederpxl_20241227_190336128-mp-2-jpg.93186

With the bleeder valve open, I drop the tube into a container of brake fluid & stroke the pedal until there is resistance, checking the fluid level & topping it off after a few strokes.

pxl_20241227_190845666-jpg.93182

After that I re-installed the steering column & shroud, under dash panelling, instrument cluster, surround, steering wheel & airbag.Finally, I forgot to remove the set screw I used to locate the airbag contact reel spring, so I just cut it short. Not going to hurt anything as is.pxl_20241227_212055441-mp-2-jpg.93185

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Been working on the LS-into-91 Volvo 740 Pickup. Prep work involved beefing up the rear subframe & engine crossmember.

290506434_10158773100506370_4464116789946155459_n.jpg

I decided to make a double-wall version of the rear subframe

spacer.png

welded two together

spacer.png

spacer.png

Then added cross bracing when that was all done

spacer.png

spacer.png

Added outliers, so I also doubled the rear brace bushings

spacer.png

After that was done, I worked on the front crossmember reinforcements

Tie plates were added by Volvo for later models that had the whiteblock L6. The right side bracket was still available, so I bought that & used it to make the left side

pxl_20250108_220229256-jpg.94062

spacer.png

spacer.png

reinforced a bunch of unfinished seam welds 

spacer.png

added some additional bracing where they are known to crack on V8 installs

spacer.png

spacer.png

additional boxing on the top side

spacer.png

spacer.png

decent pan clearance, I added 1.125" mount spacers (intended for V8 into Datsun Z swaps)

spacer.png

converting to 6AN lines for the PS rack to pump

spacer.png

spacer.png

More work to go before I get to pull the stock drivetrain & start the test fitting.

 

Edited by HusseinHolland
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

What is it that welders put an oven to heat up before welding?

My Dad's welder guy had a refrigerator and an oven in his shop when I was a kid, WTH? I asked, welding rods in the fridge and the oven was to bring up the temp on some kind of metal before he started working on it. That's something I never learned, like playing guitars, that I regret. Practice, practice, practice...:blush:

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.