Possibly it’s loose up front?

Finally resolved the exhaust fumes in car issue - I added the downturn tailpipe (2.5" SS ) I found either on here on another Z forum, I forget. Drove it around to determine if it worked - it did - so I tacked it in place 

Didn't care for the look of the single tip, so I added a fake next to it, staggered slightly 

Much happier driving around now, can have both windows open! 😀

 

Edited October 31, 2024Oct 31 by HusseinHolland

Took the Z out for a drive yesterday - it was warm enough, and no salt on the roads yet. C30 is out of commission with a broken clutch master cylinder link rod.

Steering column, instrument cluster, all have to come out to access the pedal aassembly

I have the pedal assembly out. I drilled out & tapped to M6x1 the fixed pedal pivot so it came be serviced without quite so much drama

 

 

Back on the C30 - New clutch master arrived yesterday - normally only takes 2 days via USPS from CT, this one took over a week. Anyway, the weather has not been conducive to working outside, either way too cold or snowing. Today it was sunny & 34º, so I took advantage of that to put the car back together

Sold under Sachs brand - unit is the same manufacturer as originally installed - FTE - just with metal rod instead of the plastic mine had

test fit in painted bracket

So, the bracket & MC cannot be installed as one, even without the pedal in play. I had to insert the MC in the firewall opening first, then position the pedal bracket, then set/lock the MC in the bracket.

Left side mount points are tricky to access

Pedal set in bracket

Link rod bushing set into pedal

With that located, I attached the hydraulic line, feed tube & switch connector

Immobilizer switch harness routed

Over-center mechanism  in place - I used a tie wrap to hold the spring compressed, then set the mechanism & cut the tie wrap

Then I bled the clutch - had to remove the airbox, and the rad hose/engine harness support bracket to access the bleeder

With the bleeder valve open, I drop the tube into a container of brake fluid & stroke the pedal until there is resistance, checking the fluid level & topping it off after a few strokes.

After that I re-installed the steering column & shroud, under dash panelling, instrument cluster, surround, steering wheel & airbag.Finally, I forgot to remove the set screw I used to locate the airbag contact reel spring, so I just cut it short. Not going to hurt anything as is.

Been working on the LS-into-91 Volvo 740 Pickup. Prep work involved beefing up the rear subframe & engine crossmember.

I decided to make a double-wall version of the rear subframe

welded two together

Then added cross bracing when that was all done

Added outliers, so I also doubled the rear brace bushings

After that was done, I worked on the front crossmember reinforcements

Tie plates were added by Volvo for later models that had the whiteblock L6. The right side bracket was still available, so I bought that & used it to make the left side

reinforced a bunch of unfinished seam welds 

added some additional bracing where they are known to crack on V8 installs

additional boxing on the top side

decent pan clearance, I added 1.125" mount spacers (intended for V8 into Datsun Z swaps)

converting to 6AN lines for the PS rack to pump

More work to go before I get to pull the stock drivetrain & start the test fitting.

 

Edited January 17Jan 17 by HusseinHolland

Got the 2 speed eFan sensor bungs welded into the 2 radiators intended for the V8 740, and the V6 280Z. Using the same BMW sensor I used on the X1/9 install. My aluminum welds are just not clean enough for this type of work.

Cleaner AL welds than mine 😉

What is it that welders put an oven to heat up before welding?

My Dad's welder guy had a refrigerator and an oven in his shop when I was a kid, WTH? I asked, welding rods in the fridge and the oven was to bring up the temp on some kind of metal before he started working on it. That's something I never learned, like playing guitars, that I regret. Practice, practice, practice...