@Ownallday sorry for leading you down the wrong path with my posts, I've edited them so others wont be misguided.

11 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

I did have to make a plug to put behind the washer. The bushings are thin enough that they can walk out past the cam pin. 

Thanks for the details on the eccentrics. I was zooming in on your pic to see if I could figure out which eccentric you ended up with, but couldn't tell. Now I know why! Haha!

If I would make my eccentrics, I would make them (just under) the full width of the gear web so I didn't have that issue.

So, looking back at your .050 off pic again.... Are you sure you didn't use cam tower spacers or something? It just looks so different than what I found!

25 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Thanks for the details on the eccentrics. I was zooming in on your pic to see if I could figure out which eccentric you ended up with, but couldn't tell. Now I know why! Haha!

If I would make my eccentrics, I would make them (just under) the full width of the gear web so I didn't have that issue.

So, looking back at your .050 off pic again.... Are you sure you didn't use cam tower spacers or something? It just looks so different than what I found!

LOL. No spacers.  P79 head shaved 0.050" on a F54 block and stock valves.  I dialed in the Web Racing cam with a degree wheel an the GM bushings.

The motor pulled hard to 7,000 RPM.

1 hour ago, heyitsrama said:

@Ownallday sorry for leading you down the wrong path with my posts, I've edited them so others wont be misguided.

No worries my friend. I'm listening in on what everyone is talking about and taking in all the knowledge to use as future reference and as a guide for when I tackle the chain on Tuesday. I'm hoping just replacing the chain and tensioner will resolve the issue, if not I'll have to mess with the guides and modify them assuming the chain is not far from being where it should be and the tensioner isn't crazy extended like my picture. Otherwise I'll have to measure the head and go from there.

Are you using a zip tie on the tensioner to help with assembly?

3 hours ago, Patcon said:

Are you using a zip tie on the tensioner to help with assembly?

No, I was able to hold the tensioner in with my hands while installing it.

Its much easier to use a zip tie. Install the chain. Remove the slack then cut the zip tie and pull it out.

10 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

No spacers.  P79 head shaved 0.050" on a F54 block and stock valves.

I'm doing very similar configuration to what you did. I shaved .010 less than you did, but same P79 head and F54 block and also stock valves.

I've got a second set of parts here, slack guide and tensioner. Maybe I'll throw them on just to see if they are any different than what I've got mocked up on the block now. In theory, if a manufacturer put a little extra plastic material on the end of the tensioner shoe or the slack side guide, it would change the positioning of everything. So I've got a different brand of both available.I I'll toss them on just to see how it looks. I think I have an OSK set here as well as an ITM.

And sorry to the OP for the thread diversion. I know it's related, but still. Sorry for the sidetrack. 

20 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

In theory, if a manufacturer put a little extra plastic material on the end of the tensioner shoe or the slack side guide, it would change the positioning of everything. So I've got a different brand of both available.

I really like the Cloyes kit.  Summit has the chain, gears, tensioner, and guides for $88.  Not bad for a Made in USA kit.  The only downside is that it doesn't have the notch in the cam gear.  

18 minutes ago, Jeff G 78 said:

I really like the Cloyes kit.  Summit has the chain, gears, tensioner, and guides for $88.  Not bad for a Made in USA kit.  The only downside is that it doesn't have the notch in the cam gear. 

Would you reuse the old cam gear over the cloyes one? I noticed that when ordering the kit. Should be getting the kit today and install tomorrow.

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

Its much easier to use a zip tie. Install the chain. Remove the slack then cut the zip tie and pull it out.

Will consider, it was relatively easy doing it without a zip tie though.

2 minutes ago, Ownallday said:

Would you reuse the old cam gear over the cloyes one? I noticed that when ordering the kit. Should be getting the kit today and install tomorrow.

Will consider, it was relatively easy doing it without a zip tie though.

The lack of the notch doesn't bother me, but if you really want the notch, there is nothing wrong with using the cam gear from another supplier.  Just don't mix and match new and used parts.  The gears and chain will last 100,000 more miles, so it's not like any of us are daily driving these cars enough to worry about the next rebuild for a street car.

 

I've never used a zip tie on the tensioner, but it probably makes it a bit easier.  I never really thought about it when I install the chain set.

4 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

The lack of the notch doesn't bother me, but if you really want the notch, there is nothing wrong with using the cam gear from another supplier.  Just don't mix and match new and used parts.  The gears and chain will last 100,000 more miles, so it's not like any of us are daily driving these cars enough to worry about the next rebuild for a street car.

 

I've never used a zip tie on the tensioner, but it probably makes it a bit easier.  I never really thought about it when I install the chain set.

I suppose I can do without it. Suppose it's just nice to have it.

 

If I have trouble this time I'll definitely use a zip tie.

 

Little update, called the machine shop and they said they removed only about 0.003-0.004 inch when shaving the head since mine was relatively straight and I didn't specify how much to remove so they removed as little as possible. Gives me a little more confidence my chain is just extremely stretched and a new one should solve it