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71' Fuel Filter Level


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When I first bought my '72 it was a mangled mess from Ford mechanics trying to get it running. You know, "a straight 6 is a straight 6" LOL

It had the OE dizzy that had a small black wire going to it that was loose. I beat my brains out figuring that out but finally it ran. 

I went to the ZX electronic distributor and matching coil. No problems since the change over. Just from my FYI file...

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5 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

When I first bought my '72 it was a mangled mess from Ford mechanics trying to get it running. You know, "a straight 6 is a straight 6" LOL

It had the OE dizzy that had a small black wire going to it that was loose. I beat my brains out figuring that out but finally it ran. 

I went to the ZX electronic distributor and matching coil. No problems since the change over. Just from my FYI file...

I hear ya, had the exact same thing happen with that little black wire. The square nut inside was so loose it almost fell to the bottom of the dizzy, would have been a disaster! Made sure it was tight this time. Probably should go to electronics, just hate getting away from the original design, don't know why, though.

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I would check the new ignition capacitor, I bought three from Rockauto and all three failed. Not the same way as yours, mine ran well for about a day and then started misfiring bad. Once I got one from Napa (made in Mexico) I never had another issue.

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7 minutes ago, 240dkw said:

I would check the new ignition capacitor, I bought three from Rockauto and all three failed. Not the same way as yours, mine ran well for about a day and then started misfiring bad. Once I got one from Napa (made in Mexico) I never had another issue.

Thanks, will do. I've had a similar experience with the poor quality of brand new junk that is sold these days. Feel like a pup chasing my tail.

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Forgot to include the colortune video, it's kind of long, didn't know how to edit it. At about 15 seconds you will see the one and only spark, occurring right when when I first turned the key to start. Bear in mind the car was idling just fine a few days ago, no wiring changes or mods have been performed on this car.

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I ordered a Pertronix coil and inductor to replace the points-based ignition. Going to keep the original dizzy. Finally took the advice from many of you to do this conversion. Realize this doesn't belong on the carburetor central thread anymore but it would be kind of pointless to move it now, right? During troubleshooting I was getting some fluctuating voltages at the coil with the varying key positions so I decided to change the electrical portion of the start key (back-end). Bought a Beck/Arnley ignition switch from Amazon and was pleased with how easy it was to change out. Didn't want to replace the whole ignition switch as it is original and the same key opens both the door and hatch. Will post once the new ignition is installed. Thanks for all of the support!

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Thanks for the tip, 240dkw! Replaced the newly replaced condenser (no markings on where it was made, purchased from NAPA) with a Delco condenser (made in Mexico) and she started right up. Still going to install the Pertronix ignition once it's delivered. Will be interesting to see the difference between the two setups.

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Installed the Pertronix and gave her a full tune-up (used the tune-up proc from ZCarGuide.com). Took me all day as I dropped the Empi flow-gauge and had to repair it. Car is idling great now but didn't get a chance to test drive it due to the rain (wipers are inop right now). Are all 240s so cold-blooded as mine? Pretty warm here in SoCal but it still takes at least 5 minutes to warm the car up with choke.

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The car drives just fine after tuning it up a bit. Can't believe the difference in spark between the points and the Pertronix, as viewed with the colortune. Have a slight vacuum leak at the butterfly shaft on the fwd carb, but that's a battle for another day. Thanks again for the help, everyone.

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