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Door Internals Window Mechanisms Regulators, Etc


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So I've never really messed with the window regulator mechanisms, and I've got a 240 with windows that don't go up or down properly, I'm confident that I can just start taking stuff apart until it all just collapses and I can fish the parts out of the door shells, but I'm wondering if there is a more intelligent way to go about it.

Can I take the regulators out of the doors and leave the glass in there? Or should I disconnect the glass from the regulators while everything is still in the doors and pull the glass out first? 

I know many of you guys have been through this before, and I don't need to experiment here. You guys know the best process.

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Posted (edited)

Most of my getting into the doors has been to 

  1. Work on door locks/latches
  2. Install door mirrors

After taking off the door panel, chrome trim on the door, and upper window frame, I usually work the window out of the regulator. That involved moving the regulator up and down to get the rollers aligned. That may be tricky for you if the regulator is binding. I don't remember if I took out the regulator to clean/lubricate, but I never tried to take out the window with the regulator attached.

Edited by SteveJ
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Wait a second….. when did you get a 240?  You just tried to slip that by or did you get a new toy during my absence?  I’ve replaced the glass in my 280 and removed the external stainless frame.  It wasn’t hard.  Are the internals rusty?  

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21 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

Wait a second….. when did you get a 240?  You just tried to slip that by or did you get a new toy during my absence?  I’ve replaced the glass in my 280 and removed the external stainless frame.  It wasn’t hard.  Are the internals rusty?  

Get him!!! :ph34r:

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There are some good writeups in the Downloads area.  Technical Articles maybe, or somewhere else.  More than one, randomly placed in the various categories.  With pictures.

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OMG you didn’t.  You didn’t have enough stuff to do already.   I guess L28 motor rebuild has taken a back seat.  Did you already post pics on the forum or are you just leaving it to our imagination.  
Now you and Cliff have more in common.  
Well congrats…..sounds like you and POR-15 will become friends.  Friends don't let friends use POR-15 without gloves…..if you don't your hands will be black for weeks, yes weeks not days.  

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There's more to window movement than just the regulator so do yourself a favor and break the whole thing down.

Take the squegee and trim piece off the door, remove the window frame - you'll probably need to unbolt and possibly remove the forward guide but you'll want that out anyway to clean and lube, remove the glass, remove the regulator, remove the short horizontal guide that's amidships in the door (cuz you probably want to clean and lube it too. Check the felt running down the lower portion of the frame. May not still be there - I nearly always replace than with a strip of window channel. It keeps the window glass from bouncing around and provides a glide path as it goes down. You usually don't have to mess with the lock and latch stuff but now's to opportunity to make sure all that stuff is cleaned and working too so you don't have to crack the door open again in the near future. Then check all the parts for wear or damage and clean and lube as needed.

I've found it often takes more time and effort to get one little thing out and back it than to dis-and-reassemble the whole thing.

 

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Doors. yuck.

After doing a BUNCH over the years I find working on them thera-puke-d*** now.   

CG has all the right techniques for glass removal, but you don’t “have” to remove the SS frame if you don’t want to. Do it anyway to investigate the run channel felt stuff and replace as needed. 

most trouble I have is putting the glass back in. Getting the regulator in the right amount of up/down-ness to get started, and remember “again” which wheel to get back in it’s matching guide track first, second etc.

But to start, there are two overwhelmingly common reasons for the windows to not be rolling up and down nice. The front nylon bar on the front of the glass frame that rides in the front vertical guide  channel is likely dry as a bone. Or broken……. Add some lube and see if that helps. Quick fix. 

Second is the regulator arms have become bent from crazy rolling pressure from owners reefing on it to overcome the friction. Once they are bent they loose the right geometry. All the arms should be FLAT and PARALLEL to each other, other than the jog at the pivot. 

Good luck!

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