12 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Sorry, I didn't recognize it.  It would be nice to know if that picture is from a production car or somewhere else.  There's no identifying text for that shot.

Here it is, from post #89.  More detail would be helpful. 

You can't see the text that accompanied the photo?

Here it is again:

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...and here's a right-hand rear quarter roof/quarter joint with rear quarter panel removed (spotwelds drilled out), blasted and etch-primed:

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It's a complicated joint - the meeting point of roof outer panel, roof rear crossmember/hatch hinge mount/roof longitudinal rail/rear quarter. Perhaps not surprising that it required lead-loading.

 

Couple quick pictures with rear valance and slam panel removed.  I’ve got decent material here, mainly surface rust.  Repairs/replacement  will need to be made to left side bumper mount.

Alrighty, this is a interesting video just taken of the weld joint and just how much lead is in the c-pillar “cosmetic application” I just don’t see any strength in this lead being applied in this area. This is a rusted out 73 Fairlady I purchased for parts car. I ground off paint and bondo down to “metal”.  
 

 

 

Edited April 26, 2024Apr 26 by dspillman

 While we’re making crude videos, here’s a quickie of lead at base of front window frame as well.  Clearly applied to blend  and smooth for appearance.  

 

 

    Multiple joints, and spot welds needed to be smoothed out of sight, lead would be a single application “brushed smoothed/grinded” smooth versus multiple filler applications and sanding. 
     Lead continues out around the base of the window.

The puddle of lead is interesting but can you dig in to the actual joint itself to see how the two pieces are attached to each other?  The roof skin and the outer portion of the C pillar.

The edge along the drip rail is interesting also.  That seam needs bonding too.

Edited April 26, 2024Apr 26 by Zed Head

3 hours ago, dspillman said:

    Multiple joints, and spot welds needed to be smoothed out of sight, lead would be a single application “brushed smoothed/grinded” smooth versus multiple filler applications and sanding. 
     Lead continues out around the base of the window.

I was taught how to do lead work many years ago from a very skilled body man. You would never take a grinder to any lead, it is all done with a torch, wooden paddles for shaping and a body file for final smoothing. Shooting bits of lead all over your shop would be a nasty thing to do. Always remove it using a torch and good ventilation or a proper respirator.

 

Captured nut in picture is shoulder belt attachment.   2nd picture back towards the taillights…3rd accross the top of hatch.

Edited April 26, 2024Apr 26 by dspillman

Gonna clean this peice up a little. Should be     I interesting….dissection.

On 4/25/2024 at 10:33 AM, HS30-H said:

It's a complicated joint - Perhaps not surprising that it required lead-loading.

Not sure I understand this part... Why would the complexity of the joint mandate lead loading? I get that a complicated joint like that would require "some sort" of loading, but why specifically lead? Couldn't they have used polyester filler instead of lead?

In other words, is there something mechanically different about using lead here instead of a plastic filler?

I don’t think so, from what I read online 1969-70 was the time auto manufacturers started moving away from lead and started using plastic filler. I am sure that Nissan as just using a known method to finish off a visible welded joint.

Edited April 27, 2024Apr 27 by 240dkw

A couple of photos of the rear quarters.