73 240 No spark

[Shawninvancouver]

240dkw. Thanks for the info. I think that is where the problem is.  On all my Attempts I had a wire from the resistor to the coil. I think that may have been stopping the sparking. Zedhead. Still hoping you can do a basic diagram of the green wt and 2 bw wires.  🙏🙏 if may make my life easier and solve this silly problem.  

[siteunseen]

@Zed Headwill you make my life easier when you get done here?

I know how helpful you are with Zs. I needs some help with more ZZZ'S. 

[240dkw]

If you disconnect both b/w wires and measure to ground the one with power with the key on run goes to one terminal on the resistor and the other b/w goes to the + on coil. If you connect the powered wire to the resistor first you should then have power at the one at the coil. The g/w goes to the other side of the resistor. Both wires come from the ignition switch. 

Edited May 2 by 240dkw

[Shawninvancouver]

Yes.  Dwk That’s what I thought. Just to clarify.  Key has 2 positions ?? Run and start. 
run is when it is clicked on and turns the power on in the car and  start is the springy position. To actually start the car? When my wires where tested they were like this, the green went on when I turned the car to start in the spring position and one black and white was hot when the car was in the run position and one black-white no power. The only thing I can’t figure out that there was no complete circuit. When one of my test wires. was on the green and white and one of my tester wires was on either one of the black and white neither one of them completed a complete circuit, but I’m not sure if the car was in the run position if it was in the run position, does it not make a complete circuit with my tester?

[240dkw]

No you are just measuring between two different power supply wires that way. To complete a circuit you must go from the wires to ground. Remember to have the wire disconnected, because if the points are closed you will already have a path to ground and will not get a correct reading. And yes the two switch positions are Run and the spring return Start. You should get power on the second b/w wire in the run position if the powered b/w and g/w are hooked up to the resistor or when the key is in the start position as that bypasses the resistor. 

[Zed Head]

240dkw's comments raise a good point, which might/probably have also been raised by others (and which I missed) - you could see power at the coil with the key at On/Run, but then see no pwer at the coil with the key at Start.  The Start circuit is different than the On/Run circuit.

CO's "hot-wire" suggestion would have shown that.  But another way to test it is to measure voltage at the coil posts with the key at Start.  You'll need a friend or to set the meter up where you can see it.

 

 

[Shawninvancouver]

Ok dw. I have watched this video numerous times.  First question will his readings be different or same with points open and closed ? 
second will his readings be different with key in run position?

when I hooked my tester to green white then tried connecting other side of tester to both black whites neither gave a complete continuity.  
could that be due to car in run position? Could it be due to points? Of is that normal. When I did his second method to find hot wire with voltage that worked fine.  Is that all normal ??

 

[Shawninvancouver]

Zed.  The test I did in the start position was to the green white.  It gets power in the start position.  That is the way it’s supposed to be ? Right?

I also have one bw that is hot in the run position and one bw with nothing. So they are all as should be?? Right?

any chance on this battery not big enough? But it cranks engine.  
 

Edited May 3 by Shawninvancouver

[Patcon]

49 minutes ago, Shawninvancouver said:

Ok dw. I have watched this video numerous times.  First question will his readings be different or same with points open and closed ? 
second will his readings be different with key in run position?

when I hooked my tester to green white then tried connecting other side of tester to both black whites neither gave a complete continuity.  
could that be due to car in run position? Could it be due to points? Of is that normal. When I did his second method to find hot wire with voltage that worked fine.  Is that all normal ??

 

@SteveJ

Care to comment on your production? 😉

[240dkw]

38 minutes ago, Shawninvancouver said:

Zed.  The test I did in the start position was to the green white.  It gets power in the start position.  That is the way it’s supposed to be ? Right?

I also have one bw that is hot in the run position and one bw with nothing. So they are all as should be?? Right?

That is correct so far, but in the run position if you hook up the wire with the power to one end of the resistor and the green to the other end of the resistor you should have power on the second b/w. The g/w and coil b/w are connected inside the harness. Run = 12 v from b/w through resistor to g/w which is connected to the coil b/w. Start = 12 v direct to g/w and coil b/w

[Captain Obvious]

9 hours ago, Shawninvancouver said:

the fsm is totally different.. can someone explain these two diagrams...  i just need the proper connections...

Maybe I can explain the issue you are having with the diagram I posted.

What you added to that diagram, is not correct. The diagram does NOT show the G/W wire going to coil +. It shows the G/W going to the tachometer. The OTHER side of the tach is a B/W wire, and that B/W wire goes to coil +.

 

[Captain Obvious]

Did you do that hotwire test yet? Once we know the results of the hotwire test and we are confident that everything from the ballast resistor, through the point, to the high tension coil wire is working correctly, we can focus our efforts upstream from there.

Break the problem into small manageable pieces.