You say I should have power on this wire on side of dizzy were coil neg connects ? Power on start or run? Also power on points with red wire when ? Start or run?

Edited May 8, 2024May 8 by Shawninvancouver

Here we are 13 pages on this thread trying to figure out a wiring diagram.

Edited May 8, 2024May 8 by Yarb

Only reason I asked why it should have power as it is a negative terminal coming from coil negative.  I’m obviously no electrician.   I just want to solve this so I can leave all you great helpers alone.   Oh and maybe I don’t know how to read a wiring diagram of when the wire should have power running through it. I can follow the wires.  That’s about it🥺

Edited May 8, 2024May 8 by Shawninvancouver

If the points are open than yes to both and power in run and start.

OK guys I hate to bother you again, but I’m going back to the car later today. Please let it be known that for sure there is power on the coil when the car is in the run  position I’m getting power to the coil from the resistor. I have the black white with power when the car is in the run position going to the resistor and I’m going to jump it to the coil. The coil will have power on the positive and the negative and then you’re saying that positive power should run through the wire down to the distributor   And that power should show up at the connection where the wire connects to the distributor and at the points on the distributor when the points are open, and the power should not go across the points is that correct? if that happens then I’m assuming the only thing I can be looking at would be the lead wire coming out of the coil or some sort of ground short at the distributor is that correct? 

My money is on the red wire in the dizzy. Grounded. 

I just got some new points.  The points are actually like silver and metal. All my other ones were white and corroded. But still tried sanding old ones.  Maybe this will do it.   🙏🙏🙏🙏

I think he said that there is power on the neg coil, so I don’t think it is a ground, bad connection or points are gapped on the cam flat and never close. Or bad coil.

Edited May 9, 2024May 9 by 240dkw

4 hours ago, Terrapin Z said:

My money is on the red wire in the dizzy. Grounded. 

Hmmm. Well I think we are hunting for two very different problems, so...

My money is on corroded points that never make good contact for the first issue.

And a bad connection to the tach, or identifying the wrong B/W wire in the harness as the one coming from the tach for the second.

What does the winner get? 

Ok. The problem has finally been solved. For all of you who guessed at what the problem might be here is the answer.
a - I bought new points. And put them in. I finally took a multimeter and checked for continuity across the connection to the distributor and to the points and there is no continuity. I then figured out the wire was dead between the connecter on the distributor to the points. It’s a little old wire. It’s tiny. I put a new wire in and checked for continuity and had continuity from the tiny little plug where they wire coming from the coil goes to the distributor. I checked from the distributor connection to the points and finally had continuity. Then with the points closed had continuity on the other side of the points, and that finally solved the problem, spark now happens. Now the next thing will be to figure out how to get this to run. We got spark, but could not get it to ignite anything. My next thread will be how to get it to run with these stupid flat carbs. 
thank you to all the guys that gave me ideas on what to do and bring out the multimeter and check for continuity and really keep focussing on the stupid distributor. It was old. I did get new points but even had to pull out another wire from an old distributor and make sure that that wire had continuity finally solved the problem. I now have spark and now I gotta get this baby to run. 
 

another sidenote, I did this by bypassing the tack and not using the green and white and one of the black whites. I only used the one black white that was hot on run and put that to the resistor then from the resistor to the positive on the coil and that’s why I finally got the spark. 
 

hopefully this thread will help some other guy out one day. !!

Edited May 9, 2024May 9 by Shawninvancouver

WOOO HOOO!!! Congrats!!!   

And yes... There's still the issue of the power not making it's way through the tach, but take victory where you can get it!!

OK I read you additional text and you will not get a spark while cranking the way you have it wired. You need to wire it with the powered b/w on one side of the ballast resistor and the g/w wire on the other side of the resistor and then the jumper from the g/w terminal to the coil +. I don’t know why you keep trying to do it different, Yarb even drew it out for you!