Guys, another hick up...my water pump is giving up. Recently hearing noise. ZCD has few different pumps. Which one do you guys recommend? they mention cast iron impeller does it matter? will cast iron not corrode? what does the original pump use? Need guidance ...

I just bought this one a couple weeks ago. Can’t beat the price and it’s Gates brand. It has the “improved” impeller design that supposedly pumps more water with less weight…

Gates 41132 Premium Engine Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2S6WU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

42 minutes ago, kcpope said:

I just bought this one a couple weeks ago. Can’t beat the price and it’s Gates brand. It has the “improved” impeller design that supposedly pumps more water with less weight…

Gates 41132 Premium Engine Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2S6WU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Gates is a good name and price is great. Did u install it already? Is this something easy DIY?

There is a Japanese brand out there that’s superior. Gates is in the hose and belt industry IMO.

I’ll follow up with the name.

Aisin available on Amazon $38.50

Edited May 9, 2024May 9 by Yarb
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1 hour ago, Yarb said:

There is a Japanese brand out there that’s superior. Gates is in the hose and belt industry IMO.

I’ll follow up with the name.

Aisin available on Amazon $38.50

Is it Kameari-Japan?

ZCD says this Aisin is same pump Kameari sells?

https://zcardepot.com/products/water-pump-new-japan-240z-260z-280z?_pos=5&_sid=aa67b32da&_ss=r

2 hours ago, MH77280Z said:

Gates is a good name and price is great. Did u install it already? Is this something easy DIY?

Haven’t installed yet, but build quality seems just fine. Includes gasket as well. Its not that hard of an install, just takes a bit of time to remove parts to get to it. I haven’t heard any stories of failures, and the Amazon reviews appear good, so I’d take the win on any reasonably priced Datsun parts I can find. There aren’t many.

One thing I would recommend. Get new water pump mounting bolts. If yours are original like mine were, they’re prolly rusted to death.

MSA sells a hardware kit.

https://www.thezstore.com/product/7020/water-pump-hardware-kit-70-83-z-zx

 

The toughest part of doing the water pump is getting the old bolts out without breaking them. Some of them are long and skinny. A little corrosion makes them difficult to get out.

6 hours ago, Patcon said:

The toughest part of doing the water pump is getting the old bolts out without breaking them. Some of them are long and skinny. A little corrosion makes them difficult to get out.

Recommend that you use an impact driver* to free up the bolts.  To gain the required access, you'll need to drain the cooling system and remove the radiator.

(* Do not use an electric or pneumatic impact driver.  Use the good-old-fashioned, hammer-blow type.  It may take a bit more time and effort, but it prevents overpowering the bolts.  A high-torque power impact driver will snap those long bolts just as surely as you leaning on them too hard with a wrench.)  

Here's a picture of what you'll be working with.  The numbers refer to the wrench size...

x

The pump is secured by a total of five bolts.  Three of these also help to secure the Timing Cover to the front of the engine block. 

• The small-head bolts at 1 o’clock and 4 o’clock are short and  thread into the cover – M6 (10mm wrench)
• The large-head bolts at 7 o’clock and 9 o’clock are long and fat and thread into the block – M8 (12mm wrench)
• The small-head bolt at 11 o’clock is long and skinny and also threads into the block – M6 (10mm wrench)

The long, skinny bolt @ 11 o'clock is usually the one that snaps off when removing or tightening.  The rad, pulley, pump, and the timing cover will all have to come off to get the access needed to extract the remains.  Removing and reinstalling the timing cover will open up the potential for oil leaks where it meets the oil pan. 

In other words, there's going to be a high price to pay if you snap off one of these water pump bolts.  It doesn't need to happen... but it very well may if you try to rush the job and use too much tool and not enough caution.

Edited May 9, 2024May 9 by Namerow

11 hours ago, MH77280Z said:

Recently hearing noise.

Other stuff can make noise up there.  Worth checking before you start breaking bolts.

14 hours ago, Yarb said:

There is a Japanese brand out there that’s superior. Gates is in the hose and belt industry IMO.

I’ll follow up with the name.

Aisin available on Amazon $38.50

Seems like Aisin WPN013 is recommended in some other prior posts as well due to its cast iron impeller. I will probably stick with that. Available on Amazon.

Edited May 9, 2024May 9 by MH77280Z

I don't know if this is "internet wisdom" or not but I've generally heard that the cast iron impeller is more efficient than the stamped impeller. The old timers always seemed to recommend the cast iron. If you have the proper coolant mix there is no reason to select stainless over cast on the corrosion issue.

2 minutes ago, cgsheen1 said:

I don't know if this is "internet wisdom" or not but I've generally heard that the cast iron impeller is more efficient than the stamped impeller. The old timers always seemed to recommend the cast iron. If you have the proper coolant mix there is no reason to select stainless over cast on the corrosion issue.

"Internet wisdom" that's too funny an oxymoron like "model prisoner".

I've read that as well and I've always used the cone shaped cast iron prop, Asin one too. From what I remember it was the steel impeller causing electrolysis and freezing up the steel bolts in the aluminum front cover?

Both my Zs had the OE cast iron pumps and they were still flowing great. I think they're designed better on side by side comparison.

I'm an old timer!