57 minutes ago, Shawninvancouver said:

We have now removed the flat top carbs.

Actually you removed the carbs and intake manifolds.  Maybe that's where the earlier confusion came from.  In the picture I posted above it showed the intake manifolds still attached to the engine.  Yes, the nuts underneath the manifolds are hard to get to.

The more pictures you post the nastier the whole situation looks.  What is your end goal?  You have a ton of work ahead of you if you want to drive it.

Yes. We have another manifold attached to the round top carbs. We will just put the whole new manifold on.  The last carbs were dine and most people say to go with the round tops. The main questions are which lines can be eliminated.  ??  Can someone point that out in a photo?? Why tons of work. ? The new manifold bolts right on then it’s just the hoses.  

I do love the optimism of youth! 😉

Fuel rail has to be hooked up and fuel return line. Brake booster port on manifold connected or capped. Any other vacuum leaks on the manifold need to be sealed or capped. It doesn't even really need coolant in it as long as you run it for only a very short while

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

You have a ton of work ahead of you if you want to drive it.

 

1 hour ago, Shawninvancouver said:

Why tons of work. ? The new manifold bolts right on then it’s just the hoses.  

"Driving" will require a working clutch and brakes.  They take a lot of work once they get corroded and crusty.  That car has obviously been sitting for many many years.

You might eventually get to hear the engine run but it will probably take much more time and effort before you feel it moving under its own power.  Have you pushed the clutch pedal down yet?  I'm assuming it's not an automatic.

Besides that, you'll probably want a gas tank that holds fuel and a pump that pumps it.  Have you looked inside the tank yet?

The cooling system seems to be in decent shape though.  That's a good sign.  Fresh coolant.

Lots of work - yes. To drive it. ??? He’ll ya.  $^!# load of work to drive it. Clutch and brakes would need to be done. Don’t know if I will keep it or sell it. Floors rails rockers need to be done.  May sell it. I just thought it would be worth more with a running engine and the round carbs. Let’s see.  ???

Since this car will never be driven in cold weather, I’m assuming we can block all the waterlines going through the carb? Can someone please point out me on the photo which lines can be blocked in? Which ones have to be reconnected? That would be great thanks.

Edited May 12, 2024May 12 by Shawninvancouver

You can block eveything except the big hoses.

Thanks zed but your diagram shows more of the engine then the carbs.  Any diagram of the carb like that ?? And how do most block or cap the lines? Put a bolt in the hose and a hose clamp ??I’ve seen some little plastic or rubber nipple caps guys use on the carb side.   Any info there??

You need to plug the lines you think are useless with  bolt or similar, I used golf tees on the smaller ones. Once you're sure then get brass plugs for the final dress up.

There is no how-to guide on blocking coolant lines.  Mechanic's ingenuity is required.  

The piece of hose and a bolt is a roadside fix.  Temporary and unreliable.  (Oops, site posted at the same time.  No offense intended Cliff!  Double oops.  Cliff fixed it at the end (I don't read good).  We are in agreement.)

Follow whatever line you're trying to block back to its source.  Choose the approariate blockage method.  Here are some samples.

These are pretty good.  You'll need to measure.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/compression-fittings/shape~cap-and-plug/

These are good if there's a fitting.  BSPT is the thread type.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/plugs/pipe-plugs~/?s=brass+plugs+bspt

For the carb lines you could just bypass the carbs.  Just connect the two ends together.  You'll lose some cooling power since the fluid won't be passing through the radiator.  I'm not 100% on inlet and outlet but I think that it's these two ends.  Maybe somebody will correct me if I'm wrong.

Edited May 12, 2024May 12 by Zed Head

I really want him to understand temporarily remove and keep up with it, pictures with date stamps are great. There's nothing I can remember that isn't related to a bigger thing. No parts are there for no reason. You can get away with it now that there so old but some inspections are about original "appearance". You don't want someone to see a bolt zip tied to a hose. If you're going to do that try and hide it if you can.

I guess it all depends on your end game. "Carry on"