yea the extra bolts I mentioned were for the pressure plate, not the flywheel to crank. the larger ZX uses 9 vs 6 to fix the pressure plate to the flywheel. 

You should also prob get a new tail shaft bushing, omega machines IIRC has the correct one. the one you get with kits is shorter than stock. Also make sure you get a oil gutter that fixes to the front of the main adapter plate, it catches oil slung from 1st gear and sends it down a long gutter to the tail shaft bushing. VERY important to make sure its in place to get  oil back there. Its pretty fragile, and easy to break when separating or attaching the transmission main shell to the adapter plate. You can get them from nissan, have to bend up the end to form the gutter, then just press into place. The tail bush maybe ok, just give it a good visual and check for radial play with the drive shaft yoke slipped in.

You will want a press, will help a lot. You can do it with out (seen it on youtube) but I dont like banging on things, esp ball bearings. You need to use normal care about how to press in bearings so as not to load the balls in the races. 

I like all nissan seals, can still be gotten. 

Make sure all the open sides of seals face lubricant, IIRC one on the front cover can get confusing. 

be very careful with sychro assy's then tend to pop apart and send small bits flying, especially the small springs that fit under the engagment dogs. 

think there is a left hand tread on the main shaft rear. tip, easy way to lock shaft in place is to engage two gears at once.

I used a HF puller set to get the rear bearing off, pretty sure my videos have some of this documented. I had to put several pieces together to make it long enough to press of the end of the output shaft. 

Its not really hard just keep up with the part orintation, especially the front sychro hub , that can go on backwards, the FSM will guide you. 

 

 

 

 

 

@Dave WM - thank you for all the tips.

I'll get the gutter. 

With the lock nuts, are you able to reuse them, or do you replace them? I've worked with peined-over locknuts in other cases, and have always been able to remove them without destruction, don't know if that's true here.

I have a proper bench press, also not a fan of banging on critical parts with hammers - I've seen plenty of that (claw hammer, no less, not even a dead blow) in some of the YT videos on this subject... 

I am pretty sure I just got new lock nuts for the ones that had you pin them over. prob could reuse at least once IMHO, but I had them so used them. Hardest part for me was getting the counter shaft/main gear cluster in all at the same time, I cant recall the exact sequence other than it was a bit fiddly. that and all the fiddly setup on the press to set things up. I think I used the grey rtv or maybe the anaerobic type. think either would be fine. 

while you are in there you should look into seals for the shift mech, there are both seals and o-rings involved. help keep the gear oil where it belongs and not on the ball of the shifter. 

I reused my mainshaft nut. Many times they don't end up in the exact same orientation after torquing with new parts. So you're peening down a fresh section.

I believe the LH(?) thread ones are NLA. Some people have machined batches in the past and made them available to the forum.

Stays flexible. Working great for my rebuild casings. 

@Dave WM suggested at the time of my reseals. Works great. 

Transmission arrived today

Looks like it's been apart at some point in it's life - looks like RTV on either side of the adaptor plate

On 5/14/2024 at 9:30 PM, Patcon said:

I believe the LH(?) thread ones are NLA. Some people have machined batches in the past and made them available to the forum.

It's actually the right hand thread that is NLA. They changed when they started making the close ratio transmissions in the 280ZX. The LH Thead M27 x 1.0mm is used in a variety of models like the Urvan, Infiniti, 240ZX, 280ZX, 300ZX, 720 trucks etc.

The RH Thread M27 x 1.0mm has been NLA for a very long time. Someone on this forum made some for other members a while back.

You can re-use the original nut if you can open the indented section and remove it without to much trouble. When you rebuild and it lines up on the used section of the nut, you have a couple of options: 1. Machine 0,5mm of the nut face, then the nut will turn a furthe 180° or 2. Use 0,5mm shim. Any thickness will do as long as it is not 1, 2 or 3mm.

 

 

How about safety wire?  Or a set screw.  With thread locker.  I think I already mentioned tacking it with a weld.

https://www.cornerspeed.net/2014/bikeprep.php

What’s the Nissan p/n I might have one.

On 5/13/2024 at 8:08 PM, Yarb said:

There is a trick to removing the tail shaft as well.

 

All part numbers 32354-A7400, 32354-E9800, 32354-E9802, 32354-E9804 are Right Hand Threads.

Part number 32354-E9803 has a Left Hand Thread.

The E9800 was used in the early 200SX 1979 - 1980. Right hand thread and replaced by the E9804.

On 5/13/2024 at 8:08 PM, Yarb said:

There is a trick to removing the tail shaft as well.

 

All part numbers 32354-A7400, 32354-E9800, 32354-E9802, 32354-E9804 are Right Hand Threads.

Part number 32354-E9803 has a Left Hand Thread.

The E9800 was used in the early 200SX 1979 - 1980. Right hand thread and replaced by the E9804.