75 280Z - 5 speed swap from 81 280ZX - any catches I should be aware of?

[Zed Head]

Here's an old discussion.  Interesting topic when you consider the seven different clip thicknesses Nissan used for getting a precision fit.  The kit you get will have only one.  Anyway, what can you do.  It's an old car.

 

[HusseinHolland]

9 hours ago, Zed Head said:

There's quite a bit around the old internet about converting the staked joints to clipped in.  I recall mixed results.  Since Nissan wasn't using that inner surface for the clip to seat against it's likely that they did not machine it to a tight tolerance.  Just a guess.  Might have fit or balance problems.  Worth a shot.

The switch point seems to be November 74.  So it's 1975 model year and on.

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/propeller-shaft/6

 

Yes - I found a couple threads linked off HybridZ with horrendous photography, however the description was clear - cut a recess/land for the  Cclip to seat

Lightened this pic I found to show grinding for clip

 

Edited July 2 by HusseinHolland

[Zed Head]

I was talking about the distance between the two surfaces.  The purpose of the colored clips/snap rings from Nissan, to get the proper play in the joint.  Nissan didn't need to worry about those surfaces anymore with the staked joints since the staking is done from the outside.

The joint could be loose, or it could be tight.  But it can't be adjusted if you only have one snap ring thickness.

 

[KenFirch]

I had the same problem with the tension rod bushings splitting. This MSA kit works much better:

https://www.thezstore.com/datsun-240z-1973/product/6551/tension-rod-t-c-kit-70-8-87-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx

[heyitsrama]

I really did not like the experience dealing with the stupid propshaft hardware on the diff. Personally if i had to do it again I would send it in to get fixed from a shop as they have the shims, and are gonna balance it on a machine. I think MSA used to sell a new aluminum propshaft as well...

 

(I think they call this learning 😂 )

[HusseinHolland]

5 hours ago, KenFirch said:

I had the same problem with the tension rod bushings splitting. This MSA kit works much better:

https://www.thezstore.com/datsun-240z-1973/product/6551/tension-rod-t-c-kit-70-8-87-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx

Interesting! Do you have any pics of it installed? They don't have any directions or install pics I can find on their website. I have seen a couple of cars at the Carlisle Import Show in PA that had steering rack Tie rods modded to fit also.

[HusseinHolland]

7 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I was talking about the distance between the two surfaces.  The purpose of the colored clips/snap rings from Nissan, to get the proper play in the joint.  Nissan didn't need to worry about those surfaces anymore with the staked joints since the staking is done from the outside.

The joint could be loose, or it could be tight.  But it can't be adjusted if you only have one snap ring thickness.

 

I see. I missed your second reply (above) with the link to examples of the Nissan setup. I have never seen such a complex setup for installing a UJoint. Typical Domestic & EU Spicer joints rely on a recess groove in the outer portion of the yoke, which the retaining ring/clip will seat in once the UJoint is placed. There is no adjustment - that part is quite confusing, given that Nissan seems to be a stickler for precision. Having so many thicknesses of clips implies that the production tolerance margins for the yokes (and/or the joints) must be pretty loose. I have replaced many a standard U-Joint in the past - Volvo used 2-piece driveshafts with 3 1140 or 1310 joints on all their RWD models, and worn joints was a pretty common thing. in my experience it's mostly been a question of tapping the cross back & forth a smidge to get the right 'feel' in the joint before installing the clips.

With the provided info you have given, I will have to pay close attention to the fit.

[HusseinHolland]

4 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

I really did not like the experience dealing with the stupid propshaft hardware on the diff. Personally if i had to do it again I would send it in to get fixed from a shop as they have the shims, and are gonna balance it on a machine. I think MSA used to sell a new aluminum propshaft as well...

 

(I think they call this learning 😂 )

I didn't read through your entire thread, however I'm just replacing one U Joint, and I'm not getting involved in re-balancing the prop shaft. I don't want to over complicate this - I've never had or heard of the need to re-balance a Volvo prop shaft, or even considered it a requirement when replacing u joints, and that setup is 2 piece, 3 joint with a carrier bearing. I find it hard to believe the Nissan spec is that sloppy that replacing a joint would throw the shaft balance out. I do make a point to mark & install the yokes as they came out.

Ultimately, I will be modding the prop shaft for the CD009/VQ35DE conversion, so I'm only replacing the front joint so it doesn't put undue strain on the bushing in the tailshaft, or the trans bearings.

Edited July 2 by HusseinHolland

[Dave WM]

To rotate the bolts on the back side you use a smallish wrench fitted up in the tunnel area, the spin the drive shaft. the wrench gets caught, and then turns the nut as you rotate the drive shaft. It really goes a lot quicker than described. Just remember you don't have to twist the wrench, the movement of the drive shaft does the twisting, while the wrench stay stuck in place. You just have to crack them off, from there you can finger spin them off. FYI you can tighten the same way.

Edited July 2 by Dave WM

[KenFirch]

3 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

Interesting! Do you have any pics of it installed? They don't have any directions or install pics I can find on their website. I have seen a couple of cars at the Carlisle Import Show in PA that had steering rack Tie rods modded to fit also.

Here's a pic and instructions.  You'll still need a rubber bushing on the rearward side.

TensionRodKit.pdf

[HusseinHolland]

4 hours ago, Dave WM said:

To rotate the bolts on the back side you use a smallish wrench fitted up in the tunnel area, the spin the drive shaft. the wrench gets caught, and then turns the nut as you rotate the drive shaft. It really goes a lot quicker than described. Just remember you don't have to twist the wrench, the movement of the drive shaft does the twisting, while the wrench stay stuck in place. You just have to crack them off, from there you can finger spin them off. FYI you can tighten the same way.

That's how I ended up cracking them free

Edited July 2 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

2 hours ago, KenFirch said:

Here's a pic and instructions.  You'll still need a rubber bushing on the rearward side.

TensionRodKit.pdf 115.28 kB · 2 downloads

I've ordered a set