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73 240z won’t start. Have spark


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Ya. I posted a bad photo as I never took one when both lobes were up. We specifically looked to make sure they’re both up like rabbit ears. There were two of us standing there, and we both looked at them and they were both up as high as they could go, we also looked inside spark plug hole number one to see if the piston was up and it was so I was assuming that was as much as we could see for to be at tdc.  Is that not the only two things we were looking for cam lobes one and two up as high as can go and the piston to be up and then tdc???

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16 hours ago, Zed Head said:

They look up, so you're on compression stroke. but which spark plug electrode is the distributor rotor pointing at when you are at TDC on #1, and are the points close to opening, either about to open, open, or just closed.

You need to get those three things happening at the same time so that spark will be correct for all of the cylinders as the engine turns.  Compression stroke on #1, distributor rotor pointing at #1 electrode in the cap, points opening.  

 

5 hours ago, Shawninvancouver said:

Ok zed.  Well explained. Thanks for being pacient with me.

 

27 minutes ago, Shawninvancouver said:

.  Is that not the only two things we were looking for cam lobes one and two up as high as can go and the piston to be up and then tdc???

 

This like the Adam Sandler movie "50 First Dates".   Each day is like the one before never occurred.

You have one of the three.  Do the other two.

 

Side note - I finally discovered how to do a multiquote from multiple pages. 

 

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I don't think that the points will open with the rotor between electrodes, if the parts are put together correctly.

This is why all three things need to be done at the same time.  If the rotor is between plugs it means that you need to rotate the distributor body.

 

I don't think that you actually asked the question about the rotor between plugs.  Which might be why no one answered.

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Posted (edited)

Set the points gap by getting the points rubbing pad on the peak of one of the distributor cam lobes and setting the gap.  Once the points gap is set it does not need to be touched again.  You can rotate the engine and the distributor body wherever you want and the points gap will not need to be reset.

Then find out where the rotor is pointing with the #1 piston at TDC, compression, +/- 0 to 10 degrees (use the timing mark on the damper pulley).

Then set your #1 plug wire at whichever cap terminal the rotor is pointing at.  It should be ready to start.

If you get all of that done but cannnot use the screw in the pedestal to lock the distributor body down then you'll need to reset the oil pump.  But you need to find out where the rotor points at TDC, +/- 0 to 10 degrees, advanced first.

 

Setting points gap.  Start at 1:00.

https://youtu.be/BC3nmuXdEuI?feature=shared&t=61

image.png

 

Edited by Zed Head
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Ahh next time I have time to mess around with this thing hopefully in the next few days, I will rotate the distributor so the rotator is pointing directly at one plug, and that will be number one. I think I never had the rotator pointing directly at one plug, I will try that then I’ll figure that I’ll make sure the points are opening at that point in time and that should be.

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