My 240z that's been sitting

[siteunseen]

I'd be careful pulling the chokes on also. The nozzles haven't been moved up and down in 10 years so maybe loosen the wires and pull them down by hand. Get those loosened up so you won't break the choke lever mount on the console. Also feel the "J" hoses from the nozzles to the the float chambers and make sure they aren't hardened. 

Good luck waking your baby/beast? 

[peng155]

5 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I'd be careful pulling the chokes on also. The nozzles haven't been moved up and down in 10 years so maybe loosen the wires and pull them down by hand. Get those loosened up so you won't break the choke lever mount on the console. Also feel the "J" hoses from the nozzles to the the float chambers and make sure they aren't hardened. 

Good luck waking your baby/beast? 

Thanks for the suggestion... After having sat for the past 10yrs I'm pretty much guessing I'm going to have to replace all of the rubber hoses in the engine compartment.. I'm pretty worried about the heater hoses as well..... I'm guessing that all of the rubber hoses are going to be pretty stiff and cracked.

[Patcon]

Just the remember the float bowl hoses are unique. They are not standard fuel line. They are softer and more flexible

[siteunseen]

I'd spray the heater valve with some type lube, I think I use white lithium something or another. That's the most likely leak in my opinion. Somebody told me to drain my coolant and refill with water to check for leaks, a little easier to dry out if you do have a leak.

[Zed Head]

My 76 original hoses split while driving and were blowing steam by the time I pulled in to my driveway.

Don't forget that there are hoses in the cabin also.  More to worry about.  If you're going to replace them just make a slit lengthwise to loosen up the grip on the nipple.

For some odd reason Nissan doesn't seem to have anything about the cabin heating system in the 240Z FSM's.  It might be buried in a chapter somehwere but I can never find it.

[peng155]

3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

My 76 original hoses split while driving and were blowing steam by the time I pulled in to my driveway.

Don't forget that there are hoses in the cabin also.  More to worry about.  If you're going to replace them just make a slit lengthwise to loosen up the grip on the nipple.

For some odd reason Nissan doesn't seem to have anything about the cabin heating system in the 240Z FSM's.  It might be buried in a chapter somehwere but I can never find it.

I've been reviewing the FSM for the coolant and fuel systems since both of these systems involve the transfer of fluid from one place to another within the car using rubber hosing of some sort.. I am worried about the old rubber hoses..  So I'll be replacing all of the rubber hoses in the engine compartment before I fire up the engine..

I'll probably follow siteunseen's suggestion and hook up a small gas can to the fuel pump with new gas and by-pass the gas tank completely... plus I'll also probably dis-connect the cabin heater core hoses in the engine compartment and loop the coolant lines to bypass the cabin heater core, that way if there's any leaking there I can deal with that later..

I may be over thinking this... siteunseen made a good point about spraying the heater valve with some type of lube, and I think I'll probably do this to all of the pivot.. I was thinking of using spray carb cleaner to, clean of any hardened grease or lubricant, and follow that up with a squirt of WD-40.. Does that sound like a good idea??

Thanks

[Zed Head]

You'll want to block the heater core ports not loop them.   Looping them allows coolant to flow back to the water pump without passing through the radiator.

Carb cleaner will dissolve paint and swell rubber.

I've found that WD-40 turns in to a gooey material over time.  I hosed my distributor down and it was a mess inside when I took it apart months later.

Seems like your dillema is whether or not you want to drive the car while you upgrade the parts.

[peng155]

3 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

You'll want to block the heater core ports not loop them.   Looping them allows coolant to flow back to the water pump without passing through the radiator.

Carb cleaner will dissolve paint and swell rubber.

I've found that WD-40 turns in to a gooey material over time.  I hosed my distributor down and it was a mess inside when I took it apart months later.

Seems like your dillema is whether or not you want to drive the car while you upgrade the parts.

Hey Zed head....

I don't see myself driving the car anytime soon at this point, heck I haven't drove it in the last 10yrs and I'm not in any real hurry right now to drive it... I'll be putting it up on blocks while I go thru all of the coolant and fuel hoses replacing and changing those things out... my preference right now is to do this right this time, so that I don't have to worry about it later.... Plus it my own fault for not having properly prepped the car for storage...

I've been going thru the post on this site and found a post with a link to resurrectedclassics.com, I went thru their site and it looks like they have reproduction hoses sets for the engine bay (coolant, fuel, emissions) everything I may require.. I was afraid I wouldn't be able to find the proper hoses with the correct bends to replace what every has rotted/corroded from sitting.

Thanks for the heads up on the carb cleaner and wd-40.. I'll probably something like penetration oil and a small parts brush and rag to clean off any old grease/lubricant off of the pivot points to get them moving freely again, any suggestions on what to use to lubricate the joints after cleaning??? Someone (sightunseen maybe??) suggested lithium grease..

[peng155]

Hi Folks,

Two new questions for you....

1) My plan is to drain and drop the gas tank, service on the tank it self has never been done in the cars 53yr life... I dropped a 1/4 inch diameter tube into the filler spout and drew about 1/8 of a cup of liquid from the tank. What I drew from the tank looked Ok.. no chunks, or black goo in the draw or around the tube... Which really doesn't tell me squat..

I don't plan on being able to drop the tank for service until probably later this summer...most likely around July to August time frame.. I have to see if there's a radiator shop that will hot tank the gas tank for me.... On a worst case assumption that there is some sort of goo, varnish settled on the bottom of the tank.. would i be better off just leaving the liquid in the tank, and then drain it when I'm able to drop it out of the car, rather than draining the tank now and letting what ever is left in the tank exposed to air, to dry out and possibly hardening, making clean out more difficult later??

Question 2, I got a couple of items that I either brought and no longer use/need or brought and never used.... I plan on listing them in the classified section, but since I've never sold stuff online before.. what is the easiest way for me and the seller to transfer funds?? Paypal?? I just want to make it easy for me to get the funds, once verified I got paid, I take the item to UPS get a tracking number send it to the purchaser and be done with it

thanks again for your input, and help

Edited May 26, 2024 by peng155

[bluez]

When I got my Z a few years ago, it had been sitting for a few decades (under 2k miles in 37 years). I dropped the fuel tank, cleaned it out (luckily it was in great shape). While it didn’t really it, I used POR-15 tank sealer, only cause I had previously bought it.
Then I replaced nearly every hose, rubber, seal, gasket, and suspension part. I think the biggest surprise was that the motor actually ran, prior to me replacing the fuel filter and replacing the carb gas filters. They were completely clogged up with orange rust.  The fuel filter was replaced 3 times before it finally stayed clean. If you need braided hose’s I used Bel-Metric in Mass.

For buying/selling I’ve never had an issue with PayPal.

[jonathanrussell]

Looks like you are assembling a nice list of things to do so you can get it running, drive it, and assess whether you want to go to more involved projects like replacing all bushings, springs, shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, dealing with oil / fluid leaks, interior, seals, etc, etc. Get it running but keep in mind that it will handle far better once you go through the suspension and replace everything that has worn or deteriorated in the past 53 years.

My advice would be to resist the temptation to take the car apart beyond weekend or maybe 1 week projects. It is super easy to turn this into a 3+ year process before you even know whether you want to keep it or not.

Also, if you have the tank cleaned and the inside coated by a radiator shop...they often will use a product called Red-Kote. I had mine cleaned at a radiator shop but did the Red-Kote myself. I have had no issues with the Red-Kote product. But, I think it is important that you let Red-Kote cure for a month or more before exposing it to gasoline.

Congratulations on retirement. I retired 2 years ago and have enjoyed every minute. 

Take care and let us know how you are progressing.

[peng155]

1 hour ago, jonathanrussell said:

Looks like you are assembling a nice list of things to do so you can get it running, drive it, and assess whether you want to go to more involved projects like replacing all bushings, springs, shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, dealing with oil / fluid leaks, interior, seals, etc, etc. Get it running but keep in mind that it will handle far better once you go through the suspension and replace everything that has worn or deteriorated in the past 53 years.

My advice would be to resist the temptation to take the car apart beyond weekend or maybe 1 week projects. It is super easy to turn this into a 3+ year process before you even know whether you want to keep it or not.

Also, if you have the tank cleaned and the inside coated by a radiator shop...they often will use a product called Red-Kote. I had mine cleaned at a radiator shop but did the Red-Kote myself. I have had no issues with the Red-Kote product. But, I think it is important that you let Red-Kote cure for a month or more before exposing it to gasoline.

Congratulations on retirement. I retired 2 years ago and have enjoyed every minute. 

Take care and let us know how you are progressing.

Jonathan,

Thank you very much for your message... Yes you are quite correct on your advice of resisting the temptation to take the car apart beyond weekend or maybe 1 week projects... I sometimes tend to start on taking something apart, which then leads to something related item or system, and than I'm thinking "That looks (take your pick) worn out, old, dirty.... and i start working on that other thing... So yes I'll have to make sure I don't start tearing into something before what I started is completed...

The suspension is going to have to get replaced, the previous owner lowered the car by cutting the stock springs, so I'm going to replace the springs, shocks and tires at all four corners as well... Thanks for the tip on the Red-Kote

I'm still getting use to retirement... My biggest worry pre-retirement was how was i going to fill all the new free time I was going to have... I think cleaning up the Z and getting it ready for next summer will help with that a lot....

Thanks again