2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

So why didn't you just grab onto the original existing ball on the linkage?  Is it simply that the Lokar* cable didn't come with the correct sized ball socket?

* Ummm.....  of the Hill People?     Anyone?

Yeah, the Lokar and others, typically come with a 1/4" ball and socket fitting.  Plus had to do a little pivot point geometry change.   The cable on the pedal makes 1 7/16" of cable pull, and the stock linkage ball only moves 1 3/16" downward.  So new ball pivot point corrects that so valves don't try going past full open, and pivot is farther away from linkage centerline to give a little bit better modulation from idle.  The new lever fits/forks over the linkage shaft, and a hole that fits around the old socket boss on the old lever, to locate into position.   

Yeah, I remember reading that soldering socket thread!   

@KenFirch, count me in if/when you come up with a 280Z version. Happy to help if I can (measurements, testing).

Ken (or anyone else), do you have any thoughts on the Lokar versus cheap Amazon versions of the cable? In the grand scheme of things, the Lokar isn't a big expense, but in some cases there really is no difference to justify the 4 to 5x price premium of the name brand item. I don't mind paying for quality, but I don't like throwing money away, either!

I've only looked at this one from Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B6BLY7PH . Yes, comes with gloves! 

I can't tell much difference between the two as far as the braided sheath or the actual cable.  Not sure about the lining differences between them, they both feel smooth in action.  One big difference is the quality of the hardware, like the included ball & socket fitting.  The Lokar looks of better quality, and has a real adjusting lock nut.  The other doesn't, the hex is for looks, although the cable set screw part is threaded.  The Lokar cable set screw part is metal, the other is aluminum, which I think is a bad idea.  And lastly the Lokar has more room for the loose end of the cable to fit instead the socket fitting, the other only has about 3/8".  Picture shows distance of both.  But the other has crimping around the braided sheath to prevent it from coming apart.  The braided sheath of the Lokar comes apart too easily and is a PITA to get back together.  Mine came apart when I took it out of the box, so be careful. But it is a cut to length universal kit, and the Lokar instructions warn you, you know, after it happens. Maybe wrap a piece of tape around sheath and ferrule until you're done.  I don't think the other's outside sheathing can be shortened.  But 24" is perfect for this kit.

Also, I try to support our local and US businesses, even if I have to pay a bit more.  But that's just me.

Anyway, those are my ramblings.

 

Edited June 11, 2024Jun 11 by KenFirch

IMHO, Why would you even consider going a cheaper route when we are discussing an upgrade that involves a throttle mechanism on a vehicle.

 

On 6/11/2024 at 4:26 PM, Yarb said:

IMHO, Why would you even consider going a cheaper route when we are discussing an upgrade that involves a throttle mechanism on a vehicle.

 

I wouldn't if I thought cheaper definitely meant lower quality, but I haven't always found that to be the case. That's why I asked for people's experiences. I don't mind paying for a quality product and/or a quality design, but I don't want to pay extra for a brand name (I don't know anything about Lokar, but their pricing certainly implies quality). From Ken's response, it seems like there are functional advantages to both products he's worked with, and a quality advantage to the name brand version. I do understand your question, but I don't think it's actually rhetorical.

Attached is an instruction pdf file which I'll be throwing a hardcopy in the shipment box.  Basically the same as what's in the first post.

Ken

 

240ZSUKitInstallation.pdf

I replaced my stainless Lokar cable with the black Lokar TC-1000U, I now think it's the best choice.  Someone mentioned that when he manually blipped the throttle from the engine side, the cable ferrule dropped out of place at the bracket.  I honestly never tried this on mine while working on this kit, but obviously would be necessary while balancing the carbs, or just playing around.  The problem is when you push the cable (instead of pulling with gas pedal) back down the sheathing, the gas pedal spring is resisting and ferrule moves out of place.  Worse, the engine can't return to idle. Not good.  And if you're using the stainless one, it's a pain to get those little frayed strands back inside the ferrule.  The black version is much easier to get back together.  But, it shouldn't happen in the first place.  The firewall side is crimped around the sheathing and isn't a problem there.  I called Lokar Tech, but they couldn't offer a solution since they only make a kit for the 4 bbl carb on the 240Z, and just said it wasn't installed correctly.  Whatever.

So, the fix is to glue the sheathing to the ferrule with some sort of epoxy glue.  I used J-B Weld.  Two areas, the sheathing to the ferrule, and the ferrule to the aluminum adjuster.  Apply to outside surfaces so no adhesive gets inside center hole when assembled.  Wipe off excess and let dry throughly.  Problem solved, blip away.

Forgot to mention kit is on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/226199554933.   Or by searching eBay for 240Z Throttle Cable.

And revised instructions attached.

Ken

 

240ZSUKitInstallation-7-10-24.pdf

Edited July 15, 2024Jul 15 by KenFirch
Replaced docx file with pdf.

For those running non-SU carbs, also listed on eBay just the firewall bushing and hardware: https://www.ebay.com/itm/226237509603.

 

On 7/10/2024 at 1:32 PM, KenFirch said:

So, the fix is to glue the sheathing to the ferrule with some sort of epoxy glue.  I used J-B Weld.  Two areas, the sheathing to the ferrule, and the ferrule to the aluminum adjuster.  Apply to outside surfaces so no adhesive gets inside center hole when assembled.  Wipe off excess and let dry throughly.  Problem solved, blip away.

Sounds like the right solution. I'll be doing that with mine when I get a chance. Other than that avoidable (but disconcerting) issue, my installation of your kit is working really well. My old linkage was sticky enough to make driving in town somewhere between embarrassing and impossible (it was really fun the time or two I drove it without a muffler). It's now a joy to drive it. I went out for an hour or so this morning and was in heaven. I came home and told my wife it was time for her to come for her first ride in the car. That's partly a result of the improved throttle, but mostly because of a slightly ugly, but very successful seal job I did on the hatch, which has all but eliminated exhaust fumes in the cabin. I'll post a couple of pictures of that in the build thread. Thanks Ken!

7 hours ago, davewormald said:

Sounds like the right solution. I'll be doing that with mine when I get a chance. Other than that avoidable (but disconcerting) issue, my installation of your kit is working really well. 

Yeah, wish I'd caught that issue before putting this kit out there!  Sorry about that!   

Plus, you'll need to be able to hold a fast idle during carb balancing, and I'll be working on a method to do that.