Transmission Tunnel Heat Pad Insulation - Alternate Template Approach

[Richie G]

I'm at that point that i needed to put back the insulation after restoring floorboards and sound deadening.  I had done my research on here and found excellent material with large printer format templates for the cutouts but I didn't have a printer to do it on.  So I did it the old fashioned way with cutout by cutout tailor like approach.  i made measurements along the way if its helpful for anyone without the ability to use autocad or a large printer.

I decided to start with the dynaliner material i had seen on here a few years ago when I was ripping the old matted disgusting wool pad out.  This stuff seemed easy with stick on backing and a great smooth surface for the eventual spray on headliner cement for the vinyl .  Here it is if anyone hasn't seen it on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-11103-Dynaliner-Self-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B001JT5NIU/ref=asc_df_B001JT5NIU?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989522876749&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589102084678&psc=1

If you layout the piece you get its pretty close to the exact full length of the tunnel from firewall to rear tunnel at the hatch.  (I have an early 71 btw, maybe a slightly different length for the series 1?).  Now I do have to admit, this probably would have been easier if i took the dash out, but i decided to do it in a few smaller sections instead to avoid that.

My first step was to do a full single piece from the hatch to the dash mounts on the tunnel.  Like many others, i started with a center line to help orient things.  My measurements ended up being 42 1/2 " from those mounts to the hatch so I cut that first section out of the full piece leaving the full width.

Here's the final with cutouts and I'll get to the dimensions of each in a minute

Oh and I see you get some bonus toes thrown in for good measure!

I then laid the piece out with the center line down the tunnel and made my first cut for the console mounts by measuring from the back of the piece forward.  it was 6 in exactly and the rectangle was 5x1.5

then to the other mount measured from the first cut to the next, again exactly 6" and 2.25/1.25

then to the choke location, same method from previous cut to new cut 3" and 3x9

 

the last easy center line cut was only an 1" and I used the inner shift boot as a template

next cutout for the brake was a little different since it was off center.  i took measurements from the rear as 15.75 and from centerline as 3" making a rectangular cut 6x2.5

that was all the difficult ones and the pad fit near perfectly which had me very pleased. 

What i did next was to start by measuring the back section of the tunnel which was the shortest and easiest to cut, again measuring from rear and centerline to the "curve" where the tuinnel meets the raised floor behind the seats.

IMPORTANT TRICK, use painters tapoe when measuring curved surfaces then just layout the tape on the pad and slice.

My measurements were 9.5 from center and 7.5 from rear to the point where the floor starts to curve.  the other side was symmetrical so i did the same

all that was left were seat rails, again measuring everything from the rear and center line on the pad

rear rail was 11.5 from rear and 10.5 from center with a narrow .5 slit

front rail again from rear of mat was 25 from rear and 9.5 from center with again .5" slit but in the shape of an L (sorry no pic)

Again both sides symmetrical so did the same on the other side

last step was to place it on the tunnel and then just follow the contour of the floor to trim as needed and to trim around the fuse and lighter mounts.

IMPORTANT TIP Make sure to fit not once but twice everything dry wiothout removing the backing until you have it just right

Once this piece is in you'll have the hang of this and all the tough parts are done, the rest is to use the scraps to fill in the easy parts under the dash.  most of these are square and you can use the painter tap trick to get exact lengths.  make sure to leave enough overlay at the bottom and just trim to what you need.

Some shots of final product ready for vinyl

I'll probably have to trim around the fuse box and lighter mounts, maybe even under the radio before i put it all back but i wanted to cover everything i could and work backwards as needed rather than try to add little pieces after those instalations.

Not concourse, not perfect, nothing magical but hopefully helpful for someone.

BTW, the single piece of dynaliner may run you a little short, I think i may have used some scraps from a previous piece i had for something else.  I cant tell since all the scraps ended up in one pile where they were coming from but its real darn close if you are economical with your cuts.

 

 

 

 

[Richie G]

Update.  I've started dry fitting the vinyl and noticed that the traditional cutouts for the seat rails and the typical pattern of slices near the firewall as it curves would expose some of the padding I just laid down.  Didn't like that so took some of the old headliner I just replaced (so glad I kept the skin) and placed pieces to hide the grey padding once the vinyl is done.  i used the same scotch tape from the headliner experiment and it works great.  I'm using these pieces as a test run to see if this tape can be used for the actual vinyl itself rather than messy glue (just like i did the headliner).

Here I did the entire under heater core box, looks great

and the rails