Help ID brake calipers

[Jeff Berk]

I was bleeding my brakes when I ran into an issue with the front right. The bleeder was loose but held fluid. When I removed it I found that the threading was damaged and the seat on the valve was chewed up. I tried a new M10 1.0 valve and it would not seal. I'm going to have to get a new caliper but I don't know if I can identify what was used on this upgraded brake. It's a 4-piston but I'm not sure what to order. I also need pads so I want to make sure I get pads that match my other caliper along with the replacement caliper.

[Zed Head]

Looks like this one, linked below.

Those hub wheel flange faces need a cleaning.  

https://zcardepot.com/collections/brakes/products/toyota-front-brake-caliper-upgrade-vented-rotor

[Jeff Berk]

Thanks Zed Head,

OK, change in plans...

I looked up this caliper and rotor set on Rock Auto and I'll just replace both sides. Any comments on my selection? The master cylinder seems to be working with the 4-piston unit I have so I'm assuming there won't be a problem. My current rotors are non-vented so this will be an upgrade.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14177489&cc=1277502&pt=13824&jsn=1318

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9744168&cc=1277502&pt=1704&jsn=1250

Edited July 24 by Jeff Berk

[Terrapin Z]

There are two different S12+8 calipers one vented and one not.The S12W is a vented only caliper. 

The Toyota rotors are 6 lug. 

You would need 300ZX rotors. 

Here is a snip from a Hybrids post. 

 

 

[Jeff Berk]

Looking at S12+8 vented, the listing on Rock Auto for 300zx identifies rotors for SF and non-SF non-turbo models?

What's the difference? 

[Yarb]

I installed the S12W calipers on my 78. Used 300zx rotors from stop tech. You need the Techno Toy spacer kit. You also have the nibble off a piece of the backing plate for caliper clearance. The S12W has two large pistons where the S12+8 solid rotor style has one large and one small Piston.

[Zed Head]

I'd take a good close look at how well what you have fits together.  It has the signs of hack.  You might find that you need to start over to make it right.

[Jeff Berk]

37 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I'd take a good close look at how well what you have fits together.  It has the signs of hack.  You might find that you need to start over to make it right.

I'm planning on going with new calipers so that should be the end of the hack job. I now know what happens if you over torque a bleeder screw.

I usually look for an upgrade when I replace items so this seems like a good time to install better brakes. I'm not going to go the S12W route since that would be two steps up and complete overkill. The wide opening S12 + 8 with vented disks will help dissipate heat better than the solid rotors I have now.

I'm assuming I can get away with my existing master since it was used with the original upgraded brakes. I'm hoping I can avoid having to use a spacer since I'm using NOT going with the S12W.

I just found the answer to my "what's an SF model".

Edited July 24 by Jeff Berk

[Terrapin Z]

I just run the +8 on solid rotors and have had no issues. I guess I must not drive hard enough to have brake fade, I still have fun though. 

As Zed said, brakes are not one of those items you want to have hacked together. 

[cgsheen1]

2 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

I usually look for an upgrade when I replace items so this seems like a good time to install better brakes. I'm not going to go the S12W route since that would be two steps up and complete overkill. The wide opening S12 + 8 with vented disks will help dissipate heat better than the solid rotors I have now.

I'm assuming I can get away with my existing master since it was used with the original upgraded brakes. I'm hoping I can avoid having to use a spacer since I'm using NOT going with the S12W.

Almost everyone says you need a ZX 15/16" master or a Wilwood BUT I use the stock 7/8" and have since I did the vented rotor / S12W swap several years ago. My youngest son did the same swap at the same time but used the ZX master. I can tell a slight difference between the two. This was after a NASA weekend on stock brakes... I first tried the 4-piston swap on my stock rotors. MINOR upgrade which I was disappointed with. That led to the vented rotor swap which led to Porterfield friction front and rear. I do quite a bit of mountain driving. The turbo Z is uphill monster and these brakes don't fade on the downhill partly because of the rotors, mostly because of the improved pads and shoes.

If you use 300ZX vented rotors, a spacer for the rotor is unavoidable as are the vented rotor calipers.

The simplest route would be new stock rotors and Toyota 4-Pistons for solid rotors with some decent pads... 

[RIP260Z]

Jeff,

These look very much like the MK63 four pot caliper, you can just make out a little of the "63" under the red paint. Also, the long ridge down the caliper indiatces so. Do a search here....a very good, period caliper, even in solid rotor form... I have them, and refurbish parts are available.

Judge against this pair on Yahoo Japan auctions;

https://www.jauce.com/auction/x1145679334

Yours have the vented pads in, which work, but not the correct solid rotor ones.

Edited July 26 by RIP260Z

[HS30-H]

2 hours ago, RIP260Z said:

Jeff,

These look very much like the MK63 four pot caliper, you can just make out a little of the "63" under the red paint. Also, the long ridge down the caliper indiatces so. Do a search here....a very good, period caliper, even in solid rotor form... I have them, and refurbish parts are available.

 

I concur Ian. Jeff has a pair of solid rotor type (narrow) Sumitomo MK63 4-pot calipers, complete with the correct mounting kit - identifiable via the alloy plumbing elbows and flexi pipes.

On 7/24/2024 at 4:45 PM, Jeff Berk said:

When I removed it I found that the threading was damaged and the seat on the valve was chewed up. I tried a new M10 1.0 valve and it would not seal.

Your early Sumitomo MK63s use the Dunlop style ball-bearing bleed nipples (the bleed nipple 'squashes' a small BB against a small hole in the caliper to seal it) and there's a reverse dome on the end of the nipple to assist this. Swapping in an ordinary M10 1.0 valve won't do.