Help ID brake calipers

[RIP260Z]

On 8/2/2024 at 7:02 PM, Jeff Berk said:

BTW, I just got a quote from Brake Materials & Parts in Fort Wayne, IN to re-line my mk63s (assuming the bleeder valve is working). It would cost $50/pad plus $30 shop fees (i.e. $230 plus tax and shipping).

The Project Mµ correct pads are about $57 , plus bidding fees and shipping, no doubt under that price of $230 +. Project Mµ great stuff, suitable for street and race, I think from 0-400 degrees C.

https://www.jauce.com/auction/w1138774065

 

[Jeff Berk]

RIPZ

Thanks for the heads up on the auction. I've purchased parts from Japan before but never at auction. 

Now I'm torn between completing the Toyota upgrade or staying with the mk63 upgrade by a previous owner. If I go the Toyota route, I can keep or sell the mk63. If I go with the mk63 route, then I can return one of the calipers and the two rotors to Rock Auto. The pads and one caliper are not returnable because they have been installed. 

I'm thinking maybe the mk63s are the better choice if the pistons are not pitted.

Jeff

 

 

[Yarb]

The question I have is are the seals and pistons readily available? I would think as a minimum you need a seal kit.

[RIP260Z]

3 hours ago, Yarb said:

The question I have is are the seals and pistons readily available? I would think as a minimum you need a seal kit.

The pistons and seals are available;

https://www.jauce.com/auction/r1144731421

And can be brought separately. Pistons, in theory, should be available from Nissan.

What is also needed, which isn't in the seal kit, are the seal retaining rings...which are avail repro. Stainless instead of steel. Helps keep the water out of the piston. Here is a listing with the maker of the seal rings;

https://www.jauce.com/auction/1115276814

[RIP260Z]

And here are some reproduction bleed nipples;

https://www.jauce.com/auction/w1137033573

The auction has finished, but the seller has listed and sold 2 or 3 sets now, so hopefully more would be listed later if you require Jeff.

[Jeff Berk]

I don't know how safe a site they are, but I found everything I needed (except the pads) at Amayama.com. I'm still tearing down the brakes and so far I only need one piston and possibly one bleeder valve replaced. Unfortunately, my 260 will be down for a few weeks waiting on the parts.

[Yarb]

Ordered from them multiple times. First they take the order then verify the availability and then collect your money. PayPal is the way to go as far as payment IMO. Fast delivery time from Japan.

[Jeff Berk]

I ordered the parts, the above items from Amayama excluding the bleed screws and ball that were NLA. The brake pads are coming from Jauce. I'm getting the balls for the bleeders from McMaster for about $8.50 for 100 and some washers for mating the two caliper halves. The measurements of the balls and the washers appear to be closer to inch than metric dimensions.

I have a few weeks of down time to prep the calipers. I'm planning to clean up the caliper halves and powder coat them; hone the cylinders, clean up the best pistons with crocus cloth and replace the four pitted ones. I might replace the four pins that hold the brakes due to corrosion using stainless steel rod.

I have a Wilwood 1-inch master cylinder I bought off someone that I'm trying to figure out what to do with since I'm no longer going with the Toyota 4X4 brakes. Is there any advantage to installing this unit over staying with the OEM?

Edited August 10 by Jeff Berk

[Patcon]

What are doing about the bleed screw?

[Jeff Berk]

I think I got the threading issue taken care of with a tap and cleaning up the threads. The bleeder screw appear to just need to press against the ball bearing to seal the port in the caliper unlike the more common design that requires a precise fit of the conical end of a bleeder into a matching profile in the port. I'm not too fond of the placement of the bleeder between two protrusions in the caliper, however. This design makes it difficult to close the valve while keeping a bleed drain tube attached.

[Jeff Berk]

Does anyone have an opinion on machining a modern bleeder screw to match the one used in the mk63? There was a person on Jauce.com that RIP260z pointed out that was selling some reproductions that I suspect were just modified modern screws. It seems like all you need to do is cut or grind a flat spot on the end of the cone, then grind a 3/16-inch dimple in the flat spot to fit against the ball.

[Captain Obvious]

Assuming the bleed screw isn't hardened, it sounds like a reasonably simple machining operation on a lathe. And even if it isn't fully hardened through, there is the possibility that it's case hardened. And you'll most likely cut through the case when you knock the tip off.

Are you sure that the threads are the same as the generic bleed screw? You said a while ago that there was a "normal" one in there, and it was loose?