On 7/27/2024 at 3:01 PM, Jeff Berk said:

Anyone know what a set of MK63s in need of new pads and possibly a bleed screw ball bearing worth? I'm assuming the pistons are in good shape because the brakes were wearing evenly.

You mentioned a damaged bleeder thread in your first post. I think it might be wise to establish whether there's an issue with the corresponding thread in the caliper casting or not before they can be assessed for value.

The bleeder seems to thread in better since I cleaned up the threads.

Here's a few more pictures of my Toyota installation problem. I tried reseating the hub but that didn't help. It looks like the hub is fulling seated. 

 

You need that spacer from T3. The spacer mounts to the hub then the rotor to the spacer. Should correct your problem. Never tried it without the spacer. 
Give them a call. They are extremely knowledgeable and easy to talk to. Located in California. $130 a set.

Edited August 2, 2024Aug 2 by Yarb
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33 minutes ago, Yarb said:

You need that spacer from T3. The spacer mounts to the hub then the rotor to the spacer. Should correct your problem. Never tried it without the spacer. 

The brake caliper flange is not threaded so the caliper needs to move inward then the bolt will go through the caliper flange and into the threaded attachment point. If I install the spacer, I think that will move the rotor outward and move the caliper in the wrong direction.

BTW, I just got a quote from Brake Materials & Parts in Fort Wayne, IN to re-line my mk63s (assuming the bleeder valve is working). It would cost $50/pad plus $30 shop fees (i.e. $230 plus tax and shipping).

2 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

BTW, I just got a quote from Brake Materials & Parts in Fort Wayne, IN to re-line my mk63s (assuming the bleeder valve is working). It would cost $50/pad plus $30 shop fees (i.e. $230 plus tax and shipping).

Here's the pad data. You have the NON-VENTED (solid rotor, narrow caliper) type with the cutaway shape. I have a vague recollection that there's a Ford pad (Capri?) which is very close and only requires a little trimming around the edges to fit and work safely. Worth asking your brake supplier if they can come up with something that has these dimensions.

I'll include the VENTED rotor type data for completeness, but the pads are not interchangeable.

 

 

 

HS30-H

Thank you for the diagram. The thickness (15mm) was something I was missing if I wanted to go ahead with using the mk63's. I still hope to figure out what I'm missing on the Toyota conversion. I also need to verify the mk63's are in usable condition.

I think the spacer goes between the hub and the rotor. So it would shift the rotor inboard

2 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

HS30-H

Thank you for the diagram. The thickness (15mm) was something I was missing if I wanted to go ahead with using the mk63's. I still hope to figure out what I'm missing on the Toyota conversion. I also need to verify the mk63's are in usable condition.

I agree with @Yarb the T3 spacers fit between the hub and the rotor. Thereby spacing the rotor back in to the car. This will move the caliper back to the spot where it will clear the strut housing bracket. Do install the correct pads too. 

I'm going to check with T3 on which of their spacer will work to be on the safe side.

Can't you just use washers or shims (fender shims can be swapped with the bolts in place) as spacers and try them in different spots until things fit right?  Then take the measurement and get the right spacer in the right spot?

Even after T3 tells you something you still won't really know until you try it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/144-piece-body-shim-assortment-67585.html

 

Edited August 3, 2024Aug 3 by Zed Head
spling

Zed Head,

That's not a bad idea. I think I'll give it a try. Once I know the thickness, I can machine something at the makerspace.

Jeff