Bad Air Pump Valve?

[w3wilkes]

You don't need to go with the euro balance tube initially, but it is something I'll probably do down the road too. I've removed all the air pump smog stuff currently and kept the PCV and valve cover vent hose. I did go with an ITG air filter and drilled the back plate of the air filter for the carb vent hoses (I T'd the carb float bowl vent hoses so I only had to have one hole for the float vents in the back plate of the air filter) and also did AN fittings for the valve cover hose. Here's a picture of what I did.

[Richie G]

Nice.  As i start taking this apart it seems like it will be easier than i thought.  One extra question or two as I get through this.  I see the emissions control screw / linkage will now basically be useless and flap in the breeze.  Just leave it like that I guess?  And another real newbie question, because I'm afraid of another slip up, How do you take the "ball joint" link off the balance tube to the throttle linkage?  I definitely dont want to crack that ball joint.

[KenFirch]

Those white plastic ball sockets should pry off pretty easily with a screwdriver or small open end wrench.  Post a pic when you get a chance so we can see what you have.

[Richie G]

Thanks @KenFirch yes got em off after seeing someone on youtube 🙂  I made some good progress today getting ready.  Air filter, balance tube gone.  Smog pump hoses brackets gone.  Cut out the air tube to make a little more room.  Removed the nuts from the mani to exhaust.  I have not yet removed the carbs / intake or the coolant hoses running through them.  Eye balling it maybe they don't have to come off?  i hate to have to drain this radiator, I literally filled it like 10 days ago after flush and refurb of heater unit and radiator lol.  i took the nut off the bracket holding the rear coolant tube and the bolt out of the 3 way heater valve on the otherside.  With a little wiggle and loosening of some of the hoses I can get the tube bracket off the bolt.  maybe those pieces dont have to come off?  I think I'll wait until i get the new stuff before i bother trying anything else.

[w3wilkes]

As Ken says, those ball joints pop off and push back on pretty easily. I think they may be nylon. Yes, that lever to open the throttle a little in deceleration does as you say "just flap in the breeze".

[w3wilkes]

Can't wait to see it with the euro balance tube. Did you get the semi polished one that ZTherapy sells or did you find a real one?

[Richie G]

I stumbled on a real one.  Nothing but the pcv valve and the booster port mounted vertically.  I don't think there's even a plug in the old horizontal booster port out the back.  Smooth all around. 

[Captain Obvious]

9 hours ago, Richie G said:

2.) Is removing the smog pump as easy as just literally removing the pump, belt, and associated (and frigging newly bought) corresponding hoses?  Anything to "tune or adjust" now that its removed from the belt system?

3.) The euro style tube has no accommodations for the servo diaphragm and control valve.  Do I need to rethink this?  I'm not even sure what those things do and more than likely on this car they are not working right anyway, just like the check valve that got me into this in the first place.

5.) Once all said and done, do i have to re-tune the carbs to accommodate anything I've done? 

6.) Am i crazy and did I miss anything?

Answers to some of your questions that I haven't seen answered already:

2) Yes, it's that easy. (And I'd be interested in the relatively new hoses if you're looking for them to find a new home. Send me PM if you want.)

3) Those things are supposed to hold the throttle open a tiny amount when you are decelerating hard. You probably won't notice if they are working or not.

5) In theory, nothing you are doing should have any impact on the carbs or the tuning.

6) Probably, and probably.

[Captain Obvious]

Oh, and forgot to say.... It looks like a graceful crash landing recovery so far. Glad to see that!! 

[KenFirch]

I'm thinking you'll need to drain coolant and remove carbs and intake to get a clean shot at removing the exhaust manifold and easier reinstall.  Especially if you keep the exhaust down pipe in place.   

Here's what some folks use to plug the air pump tube on the air filter base. I think it's a chair/table leg cap, probably from Home Depot.

If you need help wrenching, send me a message.

 

[Richie G]

You're right Ken, even though i dropped the downpipe to disconnect from the manifold its impossible to get the manifold out without removing the intake.  i can't cut the air pipe close enough to the nut to get free.  Oh well, gonna do it right and take it all off.  As of now I think i got it but will certainly PM you if I run into trouble.  This whole thing is a good opportunity to learn.  Taking things apart is pretty easy, its making sure it goes back correctly lol.  I ordered a new gasket because it looks like the one in place will split as I take off the manifold.  Newbie question, I'm assuming when i take off the intake and exhaust manifold no issues with any oil to deal with?  There's nothing to do with oil where I am with the engine right?

Oh and Captain, for now i'm thinking i may hold onto these hoses but I tend to change my mind quickly lately with this car.  you're the first person i'll ping if i do.

[KenFirch]

No oil to deal with.  Clean gasket surfaces.  I couldn't tell from your pics or video, but you should have 6 thick washers where the stud is between the exhaust and intake manifolds, like these.