240Z WILL NOT run right

[BoldUlysses]

15 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I think that your cam timing might be off by a tooth.

You may be right.  I did a timing chain stretch adjustment a while back and may have messed up the cam timing.  I'll check that too.  Thanks.  I had a timing chain holding tool, but I lost it over the years.  I think I have a screwdriver that will work per the ZTherapy method.

Edited September 4 by BoldUlysses

[Captain Obvious]

16 hours ago, BoldUlysses said:

The picture was taken before I rotated the crank to TDC.  Here's the notch & groove:

Wait.... If this pic was taken before the crank was rotated to TDC, then there is nothing to be gleaned from it with regard to valve timing.

Who cares where the cam timing marks are if the engine isn't at TDC? 

[Zed Head]

I had the feeling I was missing something obvious. 😟

I had assumed that the purpose of the notch and groove was known.  Didn't read the accompanying words.  I did get things right on my last suggestion to reset the mark on zero/TDC and see where the notch and groove were.

[BoldUlysses]

Pulling my hair out, guys.  About ready to put this stupid thing back up on dollies, push it to the back of the garage and let it sit for another 2 years while I work on something that makes sense. 😠

So the car doesn't threaten to die anymore.  But it runs like total garbage, stuttering & bucking at anything over a VERY light load.  It's still basically undriveable.

Remarks, in no particular order:

• I verified the crank pulley was properly indexed to TDC.
• As mentioned above, I put the previous fuel pump back on.
• Fuel is being drawn from the auxiliary tank I rigged up in front of the radiator support.  ~3-5 psi at idle.
• Carb float bowls are set to 21mm front, 19mm rear.  2.5 turns down on the knobs, and then I tune it from there with my Uni-Syn & flathead screwdriver.
• I'm fixated on the thought that the car used to run right, so I've been systematically undoing everything I've done over the past couple years.
• I moved the oil pump gear back 1 tooth to where it was before.  The timing bottoms out at ~20° BTDC (the top mark on the pulley) with the distributor (and the extra set screw on the bottom) turned all the way, but I drove it literally thousands of miles pre-restoration with the oil pump gear in this location, so I'm resetting it.

Next up:  Ripping off the Pertronix kit and putting the points back on.  Will report back.

 

[Patcon]

Will it rev just idling in the garage?

[BoldUlysses]

16 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Will it rev just idling in the garage?

Yes but it misses & sputters above 1.5K.  It'll sustain that rpm, but it's not happy about it.  Lots of missing at idle.

Also discovered I have a nice exhaust leak where manifold meets the downpipes.  That would explain 1) why it's so loud and 2) why the left side strut tower is looking kind of sooty.

Edited September 11 by BoldUlysses

[Patcon]

I wonder if it will rev with starting fluid?

If it will, then that suggest a fuel problem.  If it won't that suggest ignition

[87mj]

I had a very similar situation.  Not exact but similar symptoms.    When my '71 car would sit, the fuel filter would drain down to about 1/4 inch full.  It required a long crank when cold. My son would watch the fuel filter fill up so he knew exactly when it would start to fire.  The ID of the fuel hose was slightly too large and would allow air to get into the line.  Then after sitting, the fuel would return to the tank and empty the filter.  I bought new hose that is a pain to get off even after the clamps are removed and clamped it down good. Now fuel no longer retreats into the tank and the filter is 1/4 inch empty after it sits for awhile and it fires much quicker after it sits.   Sounds suspiciously similar.

[siteunseen]

Similar to my problem. Could not figure out why it wouldn't hit right off then after pulling my few hairs out I realized the lid screws were loose and the float bowls were evaporating themselves dry. 

Add another to my simple problems that I over looked. 

I would be a terrible doctor but the insurance companies would love it.

[BoldUlysses]

Can you guys check my work here?  Or take a pic of your stock distributor setup (the condenser side)?  It's been a couple years since I had the points on and I forgot the exact wiring.  Dwell set to .020.  The condenser itself is secured to the screw on the dist. body BELOW the plastic piece.

Edited September 12 by BoldUlysses

[inline6]

That is all correct.  If absolute accuracy matters to you, the spade for the wire hook up points upwards instead of to the side originally.  Be sure to put the correct lube on the distributor cam if you have not already done so.

[BoldUlysses]

1 minute ago, inline6 said:

That is all correct.  If absolute accuracy matters to you, the spade for the wire hook up points upwards instead of to the side originally.  Be sure to put the correct lube on the distributor cam if you have not already done so.

Awesome, thanks.  I mainly wanted to make sure I had hooked the condenser up correctly.  Dielectric grease OK for the cam?