Yes, that is basically what I did, every single nut and bolt. That's why it ends up being so many boxes.

The only exception is the carbs and fuel pump.   Owner has a pretty set of rebuilt carbs and fuel pump.  Horns were disassembled and fasteners sent to plater.

  On 11/23/2024 at 10:16 PM, motorman7 said:

@jayhawk Thanks for the kind words.  Not sure if I would support the raised look though  😝.

Found something interesting on the two small hood access doors. There is a little tab riveted on the end of the doors.  Later models had this all as one piece.

Yep!  Early inspection lids.

  On 1/17/2025 at 3:53 AM, motorman7 said:

Yes, that is basically what I did, every single nut and bolt. That's why it ends up being so many boxes.

How did you plate the fuel and brake lines?

  On 1/17/2025 at 2:33 PM, 26th-Z said:

How did you plate the fuel and brake lines?

The fuel and brake lines were also sent to Sav-On plating. They were put in the large-long box in the earlier pictures.  They will be rack plated.

So there will be three plating batches run at the plating shop: one batch of barrel silver/clear zinc, one batch of barrel gold/yellow zinc, and one batch of rack plating gold/yellow zinc for the larger parts. Cost is roughly $250 per batch.

The smaller parts are processed in the 'barrel', and Sav-On does a good job of cleaning these. I  believe they are tumbled together for cleaning, so plastic portions of parts need protection. (I used shrink sleeve on the carb linkages).

Not sure what they do to clean the larger parts and tubing, so I clean these up better using solvents and light sand or steel wool.

Also, any parts with cavities need to be plugged or they will retain processing solvent and leak on your parts during return shipping. (Learned by experience).

Edited January 17Jan 17 by motorman7

Do you have to string small parts before shipping?

No, I just put everything in a zip lock bag as I know the boxes will get beat up in shipping. Also, I do not overpack the bags, but everything fits comfortably, bags are cheap. I also add a little packing material around the bags.  Can't say that I have had any parts lost.  Even the small lock washers do fine and are returned nicely plated.

Only issue I ever had was a few leaky parts that dripped onto the batch and stained some of the plating on return shipping. (Smog check valve and distributor vacuum chamber are examples of parts that need to be plugged) 

The Zinc parts came back from plating and look great.  Pictures are below.  Also shown are a couple examples of the shrink sleeve used to protect the plastic carb linkage ends and sealing of the cavities of the anti-backfire valve.

The oil pan had a few dings in it so I used a little bondo to smooth those out prior to paint.

Front grill was a little tweaked, to I disassembled that, straightened the pieces, then re-assembled and painted.

The other side of the horns are not shown. Did you remove the mechanism or just plate them whole?

This is the inside.  I put the rest of the parts in a zip lock bag

Edited January 29Jan 29 by motorman7

So no issue with plating the coil and contacts it looks like?

  On 1/29/2025 at 3:01 AM, Patcon said:

So no issue with plating the coil and contacts it looks like?

No problem at all. I have rebuilt several sets of horns with this plating. No issues. 

Since we were on the subject of horns, I just went ahead and rebuilt them. Pictures are below.

I  added a view of the horn coil.  You can see that the copper is not plated.  (Also, aluminum or any material other than steel will not plate)

Also, I noticed the inside of the horn has a round metal part versus the later rectangular part. Maybe that is unique to the early car horns?

I am pretty happy with the color of the horn front cover in its match of the original. I used a dark forest green camouflage paint with a clear coat for the color. 

I was only able to salvage one gasket from the original horns out of four, so I scanned the gasket and made 3 more.