I would try an induction heater on the manifold and flare nut wrenches. I would probably heat it, soak it, heat it, soak it, then heat it and try to unthread them. I have gotten things apart with my induction heater I thought would never come apart!!

That seems like the best approach, but they are a little pricey. I saw that you used one on the intake manifold tube fitting and was intrigued. I've used a torch and ice cubes in the past, but it was not very effective on the manifold because of its size I think.

9 hours ago, Patcon said:

I would try an induction heater on the manifold and flare nut wrenches. I would probably heat it, soak it, heat it, soak it, then heat it and try to unthread them. I have gotten things apart with my induction heater I thought would never come apart!!

I did something similar on mine a few months ago but with a blow torch:

Heat till red hot around the manifold, cool the threads a little with pb blaster, little pressure on the threads with wrench. Repeat for about two hours until all were loose. It caught fire several times, but I did this outside surrounded by snow.

@motorman7 I think I paid about $150 for mine on Amazon

Looks like about 80k

I tried my MAPP Torch and it was not even close to getting the exhaust manifold red, so I think I will pop for the Induction Heater.

19 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

I tried my MAPP Torch and it was not even close to getting the exhaust manifold red, so I think I will pop for the Induction Heater.

MAPP gas isn't MAPP gas anymore. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas#:~:text=MAPP%20gas%20was%20widely%20regarded,America%20that%20still%20manufactured%20it.)

My induction heater works nicely, especially in a tight spot.

Where to start

1- Fasteners for air pump bracket to engine should be engine blue ditto alt mount fasteners

2 - Only right side motor mount bracket should be black - left should be blue

3 - Timing pointer should be clear not yellow ditto for the plate at front of cylinder head

4 - Freestanding female spade connectors should not have the lock tab

NO CHARGE for the above but if you want a Gold Medallion in the stock 240 class I charge $500.00/day plus expenses

2 hours ago, zspert said:

Where to start

1- Fasteners for air pump bracket to engine should be engine blue ditto alt mount fasteners

2 - Only right side motor mount bracket should be black - left should be blue

3 - Timing pointer should be clear not yellow ditto for the plate at front of cylinder head

4 - Freestanding female spade connectors should not have the lock tab

NO CHARGE for the above but if you want a Gold Medallion in the stock 240 class I charge $500.00/day plus expenses

I'll pass. You are mistaken on items 1 and 2 so you already have discredited yourself. If you care to belabor the point, you can refer to the earlier pictures here which show you are incorrect. If you doubt the authernticity of this motor, I can show you my personal vehicle which has been in the family for 55 years and is well documented showing the same thing.

Edited Wednesday at 11:51 PM1 day by motorman7