Silvermine dual rear caliper Wilwood upgrade

[Patcon]

So I picked a direction for my rear disc brakes on my 240z project. After talking with Cody we decided the best long term fit would be to just upgrade to Wilwoods all the way around. The rear Wilwood upgrade offered by Silvermine has a separate mechanical handbrake caliper along with a four piston hydraulic caliper.

New vented disc

BP10 street pads

New rotor versus the old rotor

To install the the parking brake caliper this yellow zinc plate needs to be removed. The caliper will then bolt to the aluminum adapter plate that is is supplied by Silvermine. The antisqueal shims on the rear of the parking brake pads have to be removed also. They are still a very tight fit over the rotor. So I took a 2" Rolok and dressed the pads down a hair. They just fit over the rotors now

There's a YouTube video I watched that shows slight reduced the diameter of the stub axle for clearance for the Rotor ID. I'm not sure I needed to but I did it anyway. I used a caliper to try to make them even all the way around.

 

 

[Patcon]

Also if you're starting from drums you will need to remove the all the drum brakes, shoes, hardware and the drum backing plate. To remove it whole, requires pulling the stub axle. The medieval method is to cut it in half.

I had to cut off my old adapter plates.They were an old design that I installed when I had the stub axles out. All the new designs only use 3 of the four backer plate holes

[dutchzcarguy]

On 11/25/2024 at 12:51 AM, Patcon said:

a four piston hydraulic caliper.

Are you not worried that this kind of brakecaliper on the rear makes MUCH to much braking power? I read a lot of people that go from drumbrakes to diskbrakes are experiencing much to hard braking and it can be very dangerous when a car brakes to hard on the rearaxle.. You need to find a balance in that and this can be very tricky! (That's why i still prefer the drumbrakes in the rear.)

Also the grooved and drilled disks... ON the REAR??  If you ask me, waiting for a lot of trouble?  I would go (If i wanted disks) for a plain single disk of about 12mm oe so.  (Rear brakes only do about 20-25% of the total of braking..  You even can drive a car without rear brakes, i don't recommend but it's not much difference.. don't ask how i know hahaha...)

Also, do you leave the brakeforce reducer in the rear line in, or do you need to take it out? (I guess the brakeparts deliverer/compagnie has a surtain plan delivered with the parts?)

[Patcon]

I am replacing the fronts with larger Wilwood's too. If necessary I will add a proportioning valve to get the bias right. They don't really provide any instructions. So I decided Id make a thread

[dutchzcarguy]

22 hours ago, Patcon said:

If necessary I will add a proportioning valve to get the bias right.

I have never altered a brakesystem, but read about it and i'm sure you WILL need a proportioning valve!  Unless your installing 500HP plus you don't need cooled and drilled and grooved disks on the rear axle.  At less than 150 horse (As it's 150SAE HP) you don't really need bigger brakes than original provided.)

As john Morton once said in a commercial: front disks and rear drums, i wouldn't want it any other way.. (Or something alike 😉)

[Patcon]

I am sure I will build a motor at some point and may go turbo at some point. It will probably have 300-350HP at some point in the future. We have some great mountain roads near us and the stock brakes don't like those long twisty downhill sections. They would always get hot and smell. These should stay nice and cool no matter how hard I push! 😉

[silverminemotors]

On 11/27/2024 at 1:45 AM, dutchzcarguy said:

Are you not worried that this kind of brakecaliper on the rear makes MUCH to much braking power? I read a lot of people that go from drumbrakes to diskbrakes are experiencing much to hard braking and it can be very dangerous when a car brakes to hard on the rearaxle.. You need to find a balance in that and this can be very tricky! (That's why i still prefer the drumbrakes in the rear.)

Also the grooved and drilled disks... ON the REAR??  If you ask me, waiting for a lot of trouble?  I would go (If i wanted disks) for a plain single disk of about 12mm oe so.  (Rear brakes only do about 20-25% of the total of braking..  You even can drive a car without rear brakes, i don't recommend but it's not much difference.. don't ask how i know hahaha...)

Also, do you leave the brakeforce reducer in the rear line in, or do you need to take it out? (I guess the brakeparts deliverer/compagnie has a surtain plan delivered with the parts?)

 The rear brake caliper is very weak compared to the front caliper. It only has a 1.6 piston volume while the front calipers have a 4.0 piston volume. After much testing we Found out that if you delete the original proportion valve The front rear brake bias will be close to perfect.

The dimple and slotted rotors do not help Performance at all. It is only for show.