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Cannot get quarter windows to seat into position after new weatherstripping


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I have a 1976 280z that I am just finishing up with basically a full restoration.  I reassembled the quarter windows with all new weatherstrip from Precision.   I cannot get them to seat far enough back to get the window frame screw holes to line up with the body holes.  I was able to get the bottom 2 started after extreme effort but the tops are still 1/4" or more away and the door won't close with where it's sitting right now as the door interferes with the vertical seal on the quarter window. 

I lubed up the seals with silicone spray and sprayed the body area with Windex prior to starting.  I was absolutely pushing with all my might while having a helper in the hatch to just barely get the bottom screws started.  If it matters, temperature in my garage was about 60*F.

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Even as it sits with the bottom screws in, the door won't close.  How tight is the door/vertical seal supposed to fit together when closing?

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The entire window assembly needs to move back at least the width of this gap, maybe more:

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I'm wondering if the Precision outer weatherstripping is too stiff?  It was brand new.  Maybe I should have glued the first part and stretched it while gluing to thin the bulk out some?

Maybe I should just leave it partially installed in the opening as it is now and try pushing again in a few days to see if the new weatherstripping has 'broken in' a bit?

I don't think I can push any harder without the risk of damaging something.

Looking for advice. 

 

Thanks

 

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I seem to recall a thread where a member used a block and tackle or some such to suck those suckers into place. Complete battle. Could NOT get the screws in any other way. i have fought this battle and given up and trimmed the seals away then used some glass sealant to form a lovely “looking” seal against the body.  Or leave the stock seal, clean it up, then use the filler technique to get a moisture seal. 

 

Just another battle with ill fitting aftermarket weatherstripping. 

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53 minutes ago, zKars said:

I seem to recall a thread where a member used a block and tackle or some such to suck those suckers into place. Complete battle. Could NOT get the screws in any other way. i have fought this battle and given up and trimmed the seals away then used some glass sealant to form a lovely “looking” seal against the body.  Or leave the stock seal, clean it up, then use the filler technique to get a moisture seal. 

 

Just another battle with ill fitting aftermarket weatherstripping. 

That might be me, I did this Rube Goldberg approach solo in my garage. I installed a couple of large hooks (bike hangers) in the base plate of the garage wall, ran a large ratchet strap from one hook, thru the hatch opening, around the window, back to the second hook - ratchet on this end. Easy on the pressure to gently pull and hold the window into position to get the screws lined up. Lube the new seal a bit to allow it slide against the body. East peasy!!!

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I also used a straight pick in the screw holes to help pry it into place and line up the screw holes. They can be difficult to get in properly. I would use some of the Precision sealant lube. Do not use silicone on painted surfaces. It's is very difficult to get off later if paint work needs to be done.

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I was finally able to get it.  I have a roll bar in the car and was able to use that with a clamp to draw the window back.  Wow, what a pain. 

Now that it's done, I'm having a bit of interference with the weatherstrip on the top of the door and the vertical weatherstrip on the front of the quarter window.  How is this supposed to work? 

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