41 minutes ago, widget777 said:

Not sure what you are asking. My phone is XXX-XXX-XXXX if you want to chat.

I advise removing your phone number from posts. That only invites scammers and spammers to track you down.

I don't think that that diagram is for a 1978.  Pre-78 Nissan did have a water temperature switch for the dual point distributors.  But 78 uses the single point distributor.  And the EGR system uses a heat activated siwtch.

The quickest way to narrow things down is to get the voltage measurements from the coil, both positive and negative posts (the coil circuit could be overheating and going open), and the injectors.  If it cranks but doesn't start those two elements are most likely to be the cause.  No spark or no fuel.

Carry the meter and/or noid lights in the car.  Measure voltages then insert a noid light if you have injector power.  A bad PCM is still a possibility.

Thank you Zed Head.

Could some of you folks tell me what voltage readings that you get on the coil posts both + and _ ? I am getting 10 volts when the battery is at 12.5 VDC. This could be why the coil is getting hot since it would be drawing more amps with a deficient voltage feed.

Thanks for your help

is the 10v when the engine is not running or running? if it is when the engine is running you could try to run a separate switch 12v wire to the coil and see if that fixes the problem. also does you coil have the correct resistance? just a thought as I am not a fuel injector person, I run carbs.

Thanks for the reply. I will check the voltage running and not running and get back to the forum.

This is the same coil that I have been running for a number of years before I have experienced this problem. I have swapped the new coil with the original one with the same problem of the engine dying. Is the resistance measured from + post to - post and what reading should be acceptable?