Don't forget to grind back the shifter base above the pivot (fore and aft), or it will hit the casing - at least my 75 shifter in the 280ZX 5 speed did

I put the wide B 5 speed in my '72. Wouldn't stay in gear until I ground it down. You can do all the install and see what happens. Taking the shifter out is not hard if you need to grind some off.

The later ZX shifter with the wafer bushing worked well for me. As you know each of these cars are different somehow.

58 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

You can do all the install and see what happens.

This is good avice.  You don't even need to put the clip on the pin.  You can check it before the transmission is installed.  It will be obvious.  But, loose bushings will make it worse.  

Transmission is out  YEA!  All went well not to much drama. Clutch and flywheel are also out.  Still need to get the pilot bushing out, will try the bread trick.

New bushing does slide onto the five speed main shaft. 

The four speed has a neutral switch the five speed does not wondering what I have to do with the wires @SteveJ if anything.

Next step is finsh getting the five speed ready to install. (seals, front cover gasket, reverse switch, speedo gear, clutch fork, sleeve, bearing)

12mm offset wrench worked great for the propeller shaft nuts. completly slides over the nuts with full engagement.  No interference with the diff cross member.

Well, if you don't have the neutral switch on the 5-speed, it means you lose the capability of connecting the annoying as hell seat belt buzzers. (Just leave the wires hanging.)

While waiting for some parts and supplies I thought I would install the R/T mount I bought a decade ago😅.  For the life of me I can not figure out how to get that done.

Any hints would be appreciated.

Thanks

Steve

Pics? Sort of vague on what advice you need 

10 hours ago, SteveE said:

While waiting for some parts and supplies I thought I would install the R/T mount I bought a decade ago😅.  For the life of me I can not figure out how to get that done.

Any hints would be appreciated.

Thanks

Steve

Here's some threads on that. I never knew it was called a Ron Tyler mount.

https://www.google.com/search?q=r%2Ft+mount+installation+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&oq=r%2Ft+mount+installation+classiczcars.com&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg60gEJMTc2OTVqMGo3qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Ron Tyler from HybridZ designed the mount after a day of breaking mounts on his V8 modified Z, if I recall correctly.  He posted the dimensions on the site and others have started producing them.

I think on the 240Z's you might have to move some fuel lines,  Can't remember clearly.  But generally, once you get under there and start taking out the old mounts that hold the bolts that hold the strap it will be more obvious how the mount goes in.  You have to choose between using a bumper or using the GM transmission mount to complete the setup.

Quick update and a question.

The R/T mount is in...Yea!    More on that later.

The bread worked for getting the pilot bushing out

Was worried at first, it took alot of pounding before the bushing started to move but once started it came out easily. (maybe a nice sour dough would of worked better)😄

Also got the rear main seal out and it is thicker than the replacement (see picture).  The new one is from Nissan, just wondering if this is an issue or not?  Or if this is normal with the new seals?

Thanks!   Steve

I don't think it will matter if the OD and ID are correct