replaced clutch master, slave and slave line now clutch slipping

[zdude1967]

So, I just replaced my clutch master, slave, slave line and flushed out the old DOT and replaced with prestone synthetic DOT 3. Well in my test drive I noticed that the clutch is slipping in 3 and 4th gear. If I punch it, the tech goes up but the car is not increasing speed...clutch slipping. What did I do wrong. I matched the new clutch master arm that attaches to the clutch pedal the same length as the old one. Is my problem in this the length of the clutch master arm or somewhere / something else?

[Patcon]

I would suspect that the clutch arm is too long. You shouldn't have to depress the arm at all to hook it up!

[zdude1967]

Patcon- I did not have to depress it to hook it up. I just adjusted the piece that the clevis pin goes through to be the same length as it was in the old one. Once I put it through the firewall it just lined up with the hole for the clevis pin etc. on the clutch pedal. Put the pin and clip in installed slave and new line. 

 

[zdude1967]

I did notice that the clutch seems to engage higher in the pedal, close to almost the top. I like this because I consider that a fast clutch (less push towards the floor). However maybe it is too high and still staying partially engaged when released causing the slip....thoughts, comments, witty observations, anyone .

[Patcon]

What year is your car?

You should be able to move the clutch release lever by hand slightly. If it has a return spring, remove it first. If it's an adjustable slave cylinder, make slightly looser.

Also before you do anything, you could crack open the bleed screw on the slave. If a little fluid squirts out the system is holding pressure. It should drip but not come out under pressure

[zdude1967]

So- I adjusted the adjustable arm on the clutch master to the clutch pedal. I screwed it in a turns and it stopped slipping. Seems it was out too far and this does something the the inside of the clutch master. I now need to adjust my e brake as I replaced all braking and clutch parts, slave to master to brake lines to cylinders etc. I tried going in reverse and hitting the brakes than tried doing the same and pulling the e brake lever. Neither did anything so next step will be removing the rubber on the back of the rear wheel cylinders to access the star and try to adjust the brakes. The work is just never ending LOL

[cgsheen1]

These don't have a "reverse adjuster" like some American cars did. The adjustment is completely either manual or through the action of the parking brake. The parking brake will only move the "star" slightly so if it's way out of adjustment you'll be pulling the hand brake forever. And that's IF you have all that properly installed in the rear brakes. I've seen some that the arm doesn't properly engage with the adjuster. Or, one or the other are worn so that the arm won't actually turn the adjuster wheel. I get the rears close by manually adjusting then finish up with the parking brake.