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Guys, dumb question ... do i also need to unplug the harness around the steering column for the dash to slide out?
After removing the two steering column bolts the column has hardly moved. Is this because of the harness around it holding it in place?


also, are there any bolt near the driver and passenger kick panels apart from the two facing upwards?

I am done with:

- remove center console
- remove windshield finisher 4x screws
- remove front instrument panel (also removed 2 screws holding the bracket for two center air ducts)
- removed 6x dash bolts near firewall
- removed 4x bolts near trans tunnel (2x each sides)
- removed 2x bolts facing up, one on each side near the vent manual lever
- removed 2x 12mm bolts holding steering column

 

@Av8ferg

Here are the bolts you’ll need to remove. Just did this job. All are 10 mm except the steering column.
-6 near windshield under finisher. A 1/4 socket wrench with short swivel extension worked best .
- there is one bolt on each side near kick panels. One next to hood release, screw upwards towards roof. And same on the passenger side
- 4 (2 per side) where the dash frame bolts to trans tunnel
- Speedo cable (what Captain Obvious said)
- 2 x 12mm bolts holding the steering column. They help lower the column so you can get the frame clear.
- your probably hanging up right around the steering column. Where those two 12mm bolt screw into. It’s a flat plate that the dash frame has to be lifted over.
The dash comes out easier if you rock the bottom upwards towards tje windshield and the up and out .
Don’t forget the 3 wire harness connections that going in to a panel in the passenger side firewall.

Edited by MH77280Z

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May be you are right but my car is pretty stock with a 50 year old dash. Took it out this weekend and all bulbs are green. With the exception of ones in the center console. But center console was taken out and work was done on it by the previous owner. So they might have been green originally. Anyway whatever suits your taste is what matters. I like the green accent as it gives these older cars a more warm vibe.

Edited by MH77280Z

Just for fun, here are the bulb specs from the Owners Manual.  Can you show a good picture of the type label on one of your bulbs?  Just curious.  Today's 57's seem to be slightly larger than yesterday's and don't fit the space very well.  I don't think that 57X is available if I recall correctly, except for NOS eBay stuff.

image.png

4 hours ago, MH77280Z said:

Factory color was green though.

No. Just bare incandescent bulbs whose light is turned a green color by a green plastic "lens" inside the gauges.

If your bulb glass was tinted green they were replacements for the factory clear bulbs. (I say "clear" but anyone that's looked at stock bulbs after 40 years knows they're anything but clear - mostly smokey brown or charcoal)

I don't see the point unless the green plastic lenses were damaged or removed from the gauge. I don't really see the point of green on green (green tinted bulb or green LED inside a green plastic housing) but whatever floats your boat. I know some people got away from the green entirely by removing the green lens from the gauges and using orange or blue LEDs (again, not my thing (bought a Z, not a ZX...) but...).

Edited by cgsheen1

2 hours ago, cgsheen1 said:

3.4W... There is a "." there, it's just hard to see.

No one wants a 34 Watt gauge bulb.

Well, you wouldn't have to worry about being blinded by oncoming headlights. The gauge lights will have already blinded you. Maybe not. The parking light fuse would probably blow first.

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