Hey guys, so my dash is all ready (pending clock restoration).

Windshield weather strip and this water **** are the only two jobs i need to get done before putting the dash in.

What is a good sequence to take this one out as it leaks when i put the car in heater mode. Hopefully there is still vacuum (in think there is as i can move between hot and cold). During hot it leaks very small drops, good enough to rust my floor. Problem is my new carpet is also installed.

I am thinking remove the pipe from the engine and let the coolant drain as much or should i drain from under the radiator?

Once that is done, put a ton of towels under this thing and carefully take these pipes out and let the heater core drain in a bucket or something?

what u guys think?

1 minute ago, MH77280Z said:

Guys, I have my dash out, will there be any issue if I start the car without the dash? I mean I need to test the new water **** and that nothing leaks before i put the dash back in. Blower and blower housing is also out. The car will be in neutral off course.

I cannot think of anything, dash only has the gauges etc. rest of the harness I have not touched.

Other than a throttle, key, choke, and a gauge to make sure you have oil pressure...  should be fine.

There have been reports of the engine not running if the tach resistor is removed, but I have not verified that behavior. Seems unlikely to me. But in any event, having the dash removed would have the same effect as removing the tach resistor.

I can't see any reason it wouldn't run. None of the EFI stuff goes through the dash harness.

And from Mike's list above... You obviously won't have an oil pressure gauge.

40 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

There have been reports of the engine not running if the tach resistor is removed, but I have not verified that behavior. Seems unlikely to me. But in any event, having the dash removed would have the same effect as removing the tach resistor.

I can't see any reason it wouldn't run. None of the EFI stuff goes through the dash harness.

And from Mike's list above... You obviously won't have an oil pressure gauge.

Car has been running perfect, no issues with the oil pressure. Whats the concern about oil pressure with the dash out? just no optics?

I'm the one that reported my car(s) would not start with the tachometer disconnected.  Actually, if I recall right, it was two cars, my 76 and a 78 parts car that had a good engine.  The 76 phenomenon went away after I changed to an HEI ignition module.  So, it seems to be a thing only with the factory ignition system.

So, basically, if you try to start it without the dash installed and it doesn't start, don't freak out.  You might just be the confirmation case.

Good luck.  One other thing to be aware of is stray wire ends that might be powered with the key on.

29 minutes ago, MH77280Z said:

Car has been running perfect, no issues with the oil pressure. Whats the concern about oil pressure with the dash out? just no optics?

Yeah, I assume the mention about the oil pressure gauge by Mike was simply due to the fact that with the dash out, you wouldn't know if you had an oil pressure issue or not.

But if you didn't have any sort of oil pressure issue beforehand and the only reason you were messing around with the dash was to make it easier to get to the HVAC system, then I believe the concern is unnecessary. 

Glad to hear it worked out so far. Remember that it may take some time for the whole coolant system to come up to pressure.

Oh, and I'd approve of a picture of you driving the car without a dash installed.   Slow enough to guarantee you weren't speeding of course, since you don't have a speedometer. Hahaha!

Any tips on making sure there is no air in the coolant system?

Nothing dramatic. Run it with the system a little under filled* for a couple minutes with the radiator cap off. Then top it off, fill up the overflow tank to "F", and put the cap on. Any remaining air should (in theory) work it's way out of the system over the next couple heat/cool cycles.

I've not found the Z to be one of those cars that really needs a complicated burping process.

* The reason for the underfill is if there is a big air bubble in there somewhere it will expand much more than the liquid coolant will. And if the system is full to the top, it'lcould belch out the top of the radiator.

Putting this thing back in was even worst.

I have noticed when you move the temp cluster knob from cold to hot the steel cable under the instrument panel bends and create issues. Is this known? anyway i had to put some WD-40 on the heater valve and its seems to go UP/DOWN. There is no real rust around it just some slight white calcification i believe.

I am nervous to get the system filled up. Hopefully nothing leaks. The L hose that goes from vacuum co*k to heater core is so tight i wont be able to reach it without again draining the entire system if it leaks. Hopefully not.

One more thing, the new vacuum co*ck has a slightly different orientation for the vacuum tube to connect and I am falling short. Is there a place where you can get the extra foot of this vacuum tube and possible a connector to extend it?

Will be putting the blower in tomorrow and plan to fire it up.

I would pressure check it first if you can. Those calcium deposits you mentioned might be from a breach in the system. 

2 hours ago, Yarb said:

I would pressure check it first if you can. Those calcium deposits you mentioned might be from a breach in the system. 

How do you do that?

 

Radiator pressure tester kit. You might be able to rent one at Advanced or O'Reilly's

https://www.amazon.com/Wenzhon-Universal-Radiator-Pressure-Portable/dp/B0CGCFJMWH/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1Y3GEZC1H9R7L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Zv1uDI4wRuNhnjzVSXnqe6epWI1Tlm2TCYwwUX2EuzkCkrXSzuaODd25gTSdSTd_LASMcJa_XFrk0l_CdwIdM1euxqinKYdGaVqrJuwCfyEAlwtyUYvXsMAHWxHHaUu9kM01qb9d3yRE36ovjHs5ycAahmRenWuN081YpACboBs3x4wuRAc5sjzhXCr55iFRihIQj5OK7AH177O6YGx3Lw.gI0qtQs6WzHwGvreJn6Kk0ttfdK1ZBbDoZqfEQrhqVw&dib_tag=se&keywords=radiator+pressure+tester+kit&qid=1740713681&sprefix=radiat%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Heater valve is manual and can be opened with the temp knob. I assume i need to open the vacuum water co*k as that's the area which needs to be tested? how do u get vacuum without running the car?