For some reason, I can't locate my pictures of this, but the hardest part was finding the rubber. It's in Australia somewhere. Lol, sorry but I also misplaced my receipt. Edit: It's called "Old Auto Rubber" Update: Found it! Here's the part number, the old rubber, haha and the new one. I took a razor blade and sliced off this protrusion all the way along. Now it matches real close.

Okay, get a dremel tool and grind or sand the staple folds or if the heads of the staples holding the rubber are showing, I took a small cutoff wheel and ground the heads of the staples off so the rest of the staple can be pushed through. Remove the old rubber strip. Then I had some T-50 staples, I took the same cutoff wheel and made them the correct length, even pointed the ends. I cut my rubber strip to length, held it in place and I believe I took a small drill bit and going through the staple hole in the stainless moulding, drilled through ther rubber. After installing that staple, and crimping it over with small pliers, I continued that process until all the staples were replaced. I remember in the YouTube Video I saw, he used rivets. I thought they would stick out too far, so I went like the original, with staples.

Edited April 12Apr 12 by Parman
Additional info

The wiper mechanism couldn't be saved. It was seized at one of the pivots. However, the motor was in great shape. I just needed to dress up the contact points with some fine sandpaper.

The contacts are under that rectangular cover. I assembled the linkage to the motor/bracket and tried to install it. Many cuss words later, I got it to fit, only to realize I had to remove it because it wasn't parking correctly.

Found my answer here. Got it oriented correctly, only this time I installed the motor and bracket first, then installed the wiper arm assembly, WAY easier! Then tighten the nut to the motor.

I really struggled assembling the hood hinges. They came apart pretty easy many moons ago, But I couldn't figure it out. Fortunately I had a spare assembled set and I took it apart. The rod laying on the little purple stool is in the correct orientation.

Hooked up the steering and installed the transmission. Installed a new Exedey clutch after having the flywheel resurfaced. Installed the engine.

went underneath to torque some bolts and noticed the clutch fork was loose, what! I had to adjust it all the way out just to get the throwout bearing against the clutch forks. That isn't right.

I'm used to doing everything twice or more by now, so after reading the same issue on this site, I removed the engine.

I added washers behind the pivot ball, I don't know why I had to, but it fixed my problem.

I noticed my new oem clutch boot replacement was not like my original. Why? The new one left a big gap at the fork, so I used my old one.

Also at this time I bumped a piece of weatherstrip I had installed using 3M super weatherstrip adhesive.

Absolutely did not stick to the rubber, but stuck to the car good. Real good. Fortunately I have a can of 3m adhesive remover. haha, I can't figure out which one I dislike more. The adhesive remover turns the adhesive into the state it was when you squirted it out of the tube, a sticky mess. It also removes paint. This is just the beginning of my aftermarket weatherstrip nightmare. Something so simple and easy turns into the worst part of restoring this car.....

Edited April 14Apr 14 by Parman
photos out of order

Maybe The throw out bearing collar was too short. Multiple configurations across the board. IMHO.

This was my first attempt on the hatch weatherstrip. I used the one that came in my precision complete weatherstrip kit. I had read on here earlier it would be better to buy an original as well as an original windshield weatherstrip. In Feb of 2021 I called the local Nissan dealership and ordered what was available, the windshield weatherstrip 90305-E4100. I ordered 2 of the hatch side weatherstrips 76911-N3000 and there was 1 76912-N4500 inner hatch seal available. I waited months but the 76912-N4500 had disappeared and never came in. The others did.

After installing the precision seal, and letting it dry for a week.....I bumped it and it came off. I re glued it with the 3M super weatherstrip adhesive, it fell off. The hatch wouldn't close all the way anyway. So I cut it up into pieces and tried different glues. I asked a local glass place what they use, they said go to the hardware store and get a tube of GOOP. Out of all my tests, GOOP was the clear winner, and it was clear. So I ordered another hatch seal, this time from vintage rubber. Their door seals fit so good, I thought this would too. Not the case, pretty much the same seal with spliced in molded corners that are too thick and they don't compress like the rest of the seal. My hatch will not close all the way and I don't feel like taking a hammer to the car.....yet. I just ordered an inner hatch seal from Scott's old auto rubber in Australia. It doesn't have molded corners and is sold by the metre. But it's the same throughout. I will update on that when I get it and install it.

this is attempt #2

Edited April 14Apr 14 by Parman
typo

I decided to move on to refinishing other pieces, starting with the fan. I took my fan into Carquest and went through their paint color books. I found a match! They mixed it up. I bead blasted my fan blades, primered and painted them.

Well, my seat belts now looked out of place as well as the seat brackets. I took the buckles apart and just lightly wet sanded the rusty areas and scuffed the rest.

Same with the seat brackets.

I painted them. I got some clear vinyl .03" thick and made new pieces for between the brackets and the seat. I got some black dye and dyed the luggage straps.

Edited April 15Apr 15 by Parman
Added photos

I got all the rear bumpers together, I had 2 off that parts car, That car is really paying off now. I got the best pieces and decided to treat the backs with POR.

here's the difference in the 71 and 72 rear bumpers.

I straightened out the dents on my press.

Edited April 15Apr 15 by Parman
added photo

Installed the fan, 1st of many times, and the horns. I had the radiator re-cored back in 2021, it's been in a box in the loft for 4 years. I had the brake booster re-done as well in 2021. I tried to rebuild the brake master cylinder but...........I'm about to learn something.

I have a few fenders off that parts car and measured and located the holes for the emblems, as well as the hatch. My hatch emblem holes were covered up, but I could find them from inside the hatch, underneath. So I removed the hatch. The fenders had no holes as the bottoms of them were replaced.

The master cylinder on my car leaked, not only the copper sealing washers leaked, but was leaking back into the brake booster. Not a good situation with all this fresh nice paint.

It was about this time I realized I don't even have the correct master cylinder on this car. The rear reservoir is going to the front and visa versa. That's the way I found it. Makes me wonder of it really makes any difference, this swap was done decades ago. It just so happened I got a master cylinder with my parts car, and it was the correct one.

It had one good cap. Here's what an early cap looks like. Too late to stop now, haha, dang it, so I sent it to White Post Restorations.

I installed it and guess what, it leaked...out the copper sealing washers where those big fittings are on the bottom.

Because these new copper sealing rings are too hard, harder than they used to be, I heated them up to a glowing red, to anneal them, align the properties. I don't think it matters how you cool copper, quickly or slowly, the end result is the same. Sure enough it made them soft and they sealed.

Edited April 15Apr 15 by Parman
added photo

My brake troubles were not over yet. I noticed some fluid on the line going to the right front brake near the firewall, in 2 spots. The plating was gone and it was seeping out these pin holes.

I have everything to make a new line, so I did. It isn't going to be plated but at this point I just want brakes.

Also one of the rear wheel cylinders was leaking. At this time, I never thought to look on my parts car. I'm not paying $500 for an original wheel cylinder, that's just absurd. I bought some from Rockauto for $45 each and made new brake lines for those, keeping my original lines for later.

I got all the leaks stopped and had a heck of a time bleeding the rear brakes. I finally realized the highest point of the line had to be at the firewall. That's where my bubble was. I had the front of the car jacked up, I let it down and the air bubble travelled to the rear and finally out.

I started installing the console but first I had to route the choke and throttle cables. This is when I noticed how long the throttle cable was. I routed it this way but it was still a bit long at the pedal.

If anyone needs some choke lever knob screws, I have 98 of them left 😆

I wasn't about to cut it, it looked original. Then I researched here a bit more and found the length of one for a left hand drive car. Huh, I had one for a right hand drive car. How in the world did it get on a car here in Montana? My solution was a piece of motorcycle fuel line, slit lengthways, and used as a spacer. It worked. I later cut the firewall pad around the throttle shaft so the wing nut rests against the grommet.

Look how nice the dash finisher matches the dash.

Installed the under fender brackets with foam, the fenders, headlights and the radiator, grille, horns, and bumper

and the decals

After connecting the heater control cables, and disconnecting them because I forgot to hook up the map light wires, and reconnecting a couple more times..for one reason or another, I finally got it.

I think it's time to hook up a battery 😬 I did, and didn't smell anything, the engine bay inspection light came on. The side marker lights worked. I had no horn, 1 bright headlight, 1 dim one. No turn lights, no hazards, no dome light. I have taillights, but no brake lights. I read through some of Steve J. posts and decided to remove the hazard switch. Found it! the contacts were not contacting. I took some fine sandpaper and shined them up, then cleaned with alcohol. then reassembled.

I now have hazard lights, turn signals, brake lights. Still no horn, no dome light. I fixed the headlight problem, it was just connected wrong.

Why don't I have ground to my horn? If I ground it separately, it works. It's the paint! I painted everything. The solution was to remove the bolts, 1 at a time that bolt the steering column to the firewall. Then grind the paint off underneath the bolts/washers. It solved the issue, but now I have 1 loud horn and one not so loud, which led me on entirely new horn obsession. Why doesn't my dome light come on, it's the paint! Where the switches go into the door jambs, I removed the switches, ground some paint off, and they also work! This is fun!

Time to install the hood. I noticed I had some areas that were not aligned that great. But one day I realized they were all related. I loosened the left fender and slid it forward. All these bolts are painted so I used a piece of plastic bag and inserted it into my socket, so to cause minimal damage to the paint.

After sliding it forward a bit.

I salvaged some rubber pieces for the tool boxes from my parts car and glued them on. here's the tools that came with this car.

I cleaned up the old carpet I had and installed. It didn't have cutouts for the luggage straps, it was chewed on and it had shrunk.

I like the floor mats.

Anybody know where I can get a nice carpet kit for this car?

Edited April 15Apr 15 by Parman
added photo

10 hours ago, Parman said:

If anyone needs some choke lever knob screws, I have 98 of them left 😆

Haha!! I do!! I need one!