12 hours ago, Parman said:

It was about this time I realized I don't even have the correct master cylinder on this car. It just so happened I got a master cylinder with my parts car, and it was the correct one.

Too late to stop now, haha, dang it, so I sent it to White Post Restorations.

A little pedantic and I'm not sure how detailed you're trying to be with the restoration, but neither of those master cylinders are the correct one for your car.

The correct one is same shape as the one you had rebuilt by White Post, but the "F" and "R" circuit markings should be cast in instead of stamped in. The master you installed is for an earlier car than what you're working on.

So out of curiosity, was White Post able to completely rebuild that master? I was trying to rebuild a cylinder like that but was unable to find a source for rebuild guts.

Captain! Yes, they did completely rebuild it. It cost a little more than I was quoted because they said the plastic reservoirs were brittle, and cracked.

Thank you for the information, I knew it was probably from car #1042, but I didn't know there was another version. I appreciate all the help you and others have been on this project. PM me your address and I'll send you a couple choke handle screws. 1 for using and 1 for losin.

9 hours ago, Parman said:

Thank you for the information, I knew it was probably from car #1042, but I didn't know there was another version.

Unless you're really worried about authenticity for your specific build date, I wouldn't worry about it. Basically, it appears there were two versions of that early master cylinder, but the only difference was how they marked the "F" and "R" output ports.

Up until around August or September of 1970 the masters had the output port locations stamped with the letter "F" or "R". But then after that, they went to "cast-in" identification marks. I jokingly called them "early early", vs just "early". Haha!

The bottom line is that the master cylinder you had rebuilt was used on cars before the fall of 1970, so it's "too early" for your build date.

There was some discussion about the changes in the early style master cylinder here in this thread: Page 3
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/65579-brake-master-cylinder-46010-e4602-up-to-91971/?page=3

9 hours ago, Parman said:

1 for using and 1 for losin.

Haha!! Very nice!

I'll PM you! Thanks!!

1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

The bottom line is that the master cylinder you had rebuilt was used on cars before the fall of 1970, so it's "too early" for your build date.

Honestly, I really tried hard to get everything correct for my build date. I came pretty close, but at a certain point I got what I could because financially, this car was eating my lunch. Just because it was a 240z part, the price was 10x the normal. Brake wheel cylinders for example. One of the parts not original to the car, is this bullet tip antenna. My 6/71 came with this tip, I think, unless it was switched.

One of the first articles I read on this site was how to fix these antennas using weed trimmer line. I couldn't figure out how to get the tip off, I ended up cutting it off...nooooooo.😣

oh, it unscrews....

The second part is the radio, the one I found is too early for this car, like the antenna and brake master cylinder. It's the red light radio, mine should have came with a green.

I would possibly consider trading somebody for the correct pieces........😏

Edited Wednesday at 03:25 AM2 days by Parman
added photo

The mice chewed the warped spare tire cover, so my daughter and I went to home depot and bought a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/16" pressed hardboard. It looks identical, might be a hair thinner. Traced my old one and made a new one

Time to put gas in it and build fuel and oil pressure. As I was siphoning gas into the tank, I decided to check the fuel gauge, turned the key, and watched my oil pressure gauge slowly rise. The fuel gauge did nothing. After freaking out a little bit thinking did I mix up the wires somewhere? Got my spare gauges out and the connectors on the back are the same, but the oil pressure/temp gauge has 4 wires instead of the 3 wires going to the amp/fuel gauge.

So I stuck my head up behind the dash with a light and saw they were connected correctly. I unhooked my oil pressure wire at the engine and now I had no oil pressure showing. This car came with a NOS oil gauge press sending unit that I had installed. I put my original sending unit back on and now the gauge zeroed when I turned the key. I moved the connectors a bit at the tank, now my fuel gauge worked.

The NOS gauge I had is part #25078-32200.

Found out that's not for this car, maybe for a 280z. If anyone needs it, I don't.

I removed the spark plugs, the valve cover and cranked the engine over. No oil getting to the cam oiler, which is a Michael Yoes upgrade. I did a little research here and someone mentioned galley plugs. That's the first I've ever heard of them. Were they removed and if so were they replaced? I don't know. I called my machinist who did the block and asked him if he removed the galley plugs. He said, "of course I did! it's standard procedure!" I asked him if he replaced them, "Of course not, that's the assemblers job!" Oh no! I don't remember anything about galley plugs, did they come in my kit? So, After a little more research I found out there are 2 galley plugs, 1 in front, 1 in back. I found a picture I took of assembly, the timing chain, and aha! there's a galley plug in it.

Found a picture of the back and the plug is there. They were never removed, thank God! I did not want to pull the engine again. So, I found a great tip here, which was to remove the oil filter. Get a piece of clear hose and stick it in the hole to the galley and shove it as far forward as it will go. Get a small funnel, and fill it with oil until no more oil will go in. I did that, re-installed the filter, and the valve cover and cranked it over. I immediately felt a change, I had oil pressure, my pressure gauge went up. I guess I had to prime the pump.

Next I took a vacuum pump and sucked fuel from the tank to the filter. I removed the fuel pump and connected a hose to it into a jug of gas. Back filled it with gas and let it soak in a bit, then pumped with my hand. I had gas squirting out in force! Reinstalled the fuel pump. Cranked it over a bit until I had gas in the carbs.

Got some distilled water and started filling my radiator. Used just water because I didn't want antifreeze everywhere when I found the hose clamps I forgot to tighten. Turns out, the water pump seal had dried up and water came pouring out that little hole. Several day later, which was only 2 weeks ago as of this writing, I get my new Aisin water pump from Rockauto and install it. Fill up the radiator, no leaks. It's time! I turned the key and It didn't even make 1 revolution and fired right up! Wow! It started revving up so I shut it right down. My linkages needed adjusted. Got the idle down and after adjusting the clutch a bit, drove this thing out of my shop on it's own power. Yahooo!

Edited Thursday at 12:46 AM2 days by Parman
Added photos

Excellent!!

Im hoping I'm only a couple of weeks behind you

After adjusting the valve lash a couple times, I timed the distributor which was really close. I tried my hand at tuning the carbs. This video VHS and flowmeter came with the car.

I backed everything off, but still was getting a 1,000 rpm idle. Seemed a bit high. I would put the flow gauge on the front carb and adjust it so the ball was in the middle. Then go to the rear carb, the ball was way high, no way to back down the idle screws anymore. I figured there must be a vacuum leak somewhere. I squirted brake clean around but didn't make any noticeable difference. I couldn't get them the same. The next day, while fiddling around with it, I grabbed my broken stethoscope,

and started poking 1 of the hoses around when whaaam! There it is. The rear carb is leaking around the throttle shaft.

These carbs were just done by ZTherapy 2 or 3 years before the car was parked some 22 years ago. I had a chat with them, boxed them up, and they are now in their hands. I hope it's an easy fix.....