Engine Rebuild Advice/Info

[texasz]

I will be starting to rebuild my new engine and need some info. First off let me say that it is an F54 block and I'm working on getting an N42 head from someone (deal is pending), and will be running carbs on an N36 intake; car already has a header on it.

The PO of the engine said that the car had been sitting for a couple years before he bought it. He said he drove it home and then pulled the engine to do a V8 swap.

I will be pulling the FI and head and replacing both with different pieces as stated above. What should I do to the engine during the rebuild? New rings? New pistons? Take the block to a machine shop? If so what should I have them do? What gaskets should I use? Do the freeze plugs need to be replaced? Tell me EVERYTHNIG!

Basically I do not want to have to pull the engine out once it's done and I want it done right...but I am on a budget like most of us are.

Car use will be for weekend pleasure and autox if this helps any.

[TKR514]

Just finished one a few months ago.

I had a shop do the head/valve work, hone the cylinders,vat clean the block, and polish the crank journals for $325.

Then I ordered bearings, rings, new oil/water pumps, gasket set, ignition parts. I kept the same pistons and rods since they were in great shape.

Assembly took me a week, working very slowly and CLEANLY. Total cost w/ rebuilt injectors was $900. Since a rebuild shop woul have cost me twice that, it was worth it.

Best of luck.

[Daniel]

What is the status of the motor as is?Who knows a few owners ago may have rebuilt it or taken good care of it. I would do a compression check on what you have before I start throwing wrenches and dollars at it.You may be better off than you know.As you know those engines last a long time.As a mechanic friend of mine says"Be darn sure before you open that can of worms"

[texasz]

The engine is on a stand in my garage. How would you do the compressino test?

[GTZZZ]

The only time I've been able to do a compression test with the engine out of a car was when the transmission and starter will still attached. I used a car charger/starter and turned the motor with the starter to perform the test. I don't know what you could do if you have just the engine alone on a stand. Maybe someone else here has a creative idea.

Good Luck.

[ZmeFly]

just hook a battery up to it and crank that som bitch with the starter. it will work and you will be able to get your compression readings.

from there you will exactly know where you stand.

if you do or are going to be doing a rebuild irregaurdless,

i would most definetly use nissan crank and rod bearings, have the block and the head cleaned and decked for good mating surfaces.

have the valves and seats done. there is just so many things but you can go from there. its more of what you want out of the engine and what you want YOUR car to do.

others im sure will chime in as you add more information

[JEFF]

"just hook a battery up to it and crank that som bitch with the starter. it will work and you will be able to get your compression readings. "

The starter mounts to the trans bell housing, The engine is mounted to a engine stand w/ the trans bolts.

At least that's the way I read the above posts.

- Jeff

[texasz]

Correct Jeff, there is no tranny and the started in in a box under the engine which is attached to the engine stand via the trans bolts.

[HKSZ]

You need a screw in plug compression tester and just turn the crank nut over with a wrench till it fills. But a compression test on a cold/not run motor is going to be a lot lower than a hot or regularly driven motor so I don't think you will get an accurate idea of cond, other than a dead cyl or something. If your engine bay is sitting empty then drop in the motor with the carbs and take a chance :cheeky:

steve

[GTZZZ]

I was going to suggest doing the same thing but wasn't sure about how much leakage would make it past the rings in a dry motor. If you turn it over consistantly on each test this would at least tell you if the cylinders were all consistant.

Another option might be to turn it over with a strong impact gun.

I haven't done this berfore, but it might work.

[Mr Camouflage]

You cant do a compression test by cranking the engine over by hand if you expect to get any meaningfull readings, unless you are superman and can crank the engine over at 500rpm.

[carguyinok]

Not sure about how you have your motor or style of stand but.....

Make sure (if your flywheel is still on the motor) that the flywheel has clearance from the mounting point of the motor stand.

I have not seen many motor stands that will not touch the flywheel without spacers of some kind.

You should be able to get a reading with a breaker bar on the bolt for the crank. Just leave out the other plugs when testing. Then theres is no pressure to fight on the cyl. not testing.

I am unsure about how the test will work or how true it would be but its a starting point for seeing how close they are with each other.

The lack of oil in the motor will fug with the test aswell so.......