5-Speed Problem

[cbrunberg]

Hi Guys'

Here's my $.02

It could be all the above, low or improper fluid, worn clutch, misadjustment... Also it could be in the shifter itself. I worked in a tranny shop for years we were a whosale builder and didn't work on the cars much and I was a machinist welder, so I can only say start cheap and work your way towards an overhaul. As far as finding reverse difficult to engage that could also be fluid being low or wrong or old, a worn clutch, or a worn gear. If it doesn't want to go in also try pushing the clutch in and out with the shifter in neutral then try reverse again. This works in big truck that have really heavy gears and no 1st or reverse synchros.

Carl

[dohc]

Hey All,

That's a good point 2Many, I haven't checked the clutch adjustment itself... It never occured to me as one day it was fine then after a hard drive though the hills it crunched and died.

Hmmmmm, I'll have to give that a shot though, is the adjustment under the dash somewhere? I know it's not at the slave as I've looked at that a few times now.

Also, where is everyone's actual clutch point? (ie the point at which the clutch engages the flywheel.) Mines about a centimetre (1/4") of the floor... Does this sound too low?

R.

[2ManyZs]

The adjustment is on the clevis that attaches to the top of the clutch pedal, yup, under the dash where it's tough to get to...

You'll need to pull the pin out of the pedal to adjust after you loosen the lock nut.

Hmm, 1/4 inch seems a bit low, usually mine have always started to engage more like 3/4 to an inch off the stop.

The free travel on the clutch pedal should be 10 to 20mm, which is free travel before it begins to move the rod to the master cylinder, which is attached to the clevis

[dohc]

Thanks again 2many, something else to keep me busy and swearing tomorrow morning :stupid:

Lets see if this will save me spending big bucks getting the trans rebuilt...... Can only hope so :tapemouth

R.

[ZwolleY]

Joking about double clutching into reverse, of course Will check out some of these tips soon, sort of busy now. Thanks

[Victor Laury]

Keith is giving good advice again. Pedal adjust is even more critical than slave free-play. The geometery of the clutch system comes to a sharp point, right at the pedal/clevis/yoke connection.

It was amazing to me how little of an adjustment made such a big difference. When I bought my 72, the clutch was dragging. not only was it hard to shift, but I could feel it, tring to move the car with the pedal depressed. I thought no problem! Jack up the car and reduce the free-play, right?

Wrong. The free play was already perfect. I began thinking of replacing the clutch, as there must be something mechanically wrong with it... right?

Wrong. The pedal was the problem. The clevis pin was worn and the holes in the yoke were ovaled, Both totaled about 1/16'' wear. that 1/16'' was the difference between a perfect clutch and a perfect headache.

[dohc]

Well I've adjusted the clutch, first too high (almost off the top) then back to perfectly halfway and..... it still won't down change to second.

It is heaps better to get into first, but still crunches on an up change to second and won't go back into second unless the rev's are up pretty hight to match.....

Damn, are we all out of adjustment idea's now, because I know I am?

Ta.

R.

[Victor Laury]

Well, If you've run out of adjustments, You've narrowed it down to syncros. Look for another box, have it gone through (or go throught it youself) and swap it out.

[2ManyZs]

Yup, sounds like it isn't the clutch after all..... but, it could be something internal that is not difficult to fix. It could be something other than the synchro... like the shift fork is worn or bent, roll pin or even one of the bearings on the main or countershaft is going... But, that means you'll still need to open it up to find out, which in itself can be a PITA....In any case, it sounds like you'll need to be ready for a rebuild or at least a good refreshing....

[Alan Pugh]

Hi Ross,

This may be a long shot but if you're going to take your box apart this is worth checking.

On these box's there is a nut on the rear of the main shaft that is torqued up and staked on assembly. I bought a box down here in Melbourne (FS5C71B) for $50.00 because the synchro's were gone.

Well on disassembly of the box to check the synchro's out, the nut on the back of the main shaft had not been staked properly and had come undone two turns. On finding this I checked the synchro's for wear and found the wear on them to be minimal so I re-torqued the main shaft nut and staked it properly.

As I said, I realise this is probably a long shot for you but if your taking your box apart anyway I think it's worth checking.

Alan.