mushupork5 Posted July 16, 2003 Share #1 Posted July 16, 2003 when im driving around sometimes the car will just turn off, and it wont start back up. I took it to my mechanic and the connector on the computer for my 76 280z was loose and then the car started right back up. after 1 day of driving around the car has the "emergency brake" indicator light always on and the car continues to turn off at certain times, both in stop and go and on the freeway. But this time the car will start right back up again and i can continue driving until it shuts itself off. Anyone had this before? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Babe Posted July 16, 2003 Share #2 Posted July 16, 2003 Unfortunately, there isn't an easy answer to your problem. You might try the following:1. Check the battery cables for corrosion, and make sure they are clean and tight.2. Check the distributor, plugs, wires, coil and EFI to ensure that the wiring and connections are tight, and all are clean. Auto Zone sells a contact cleaner that works wonders.3. If the car hasn't had a tune-up in a while, it would be a good idea to have that done (including spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel and air filters, and set the timing). You might also try using a fuel cleaner additive to help remove any deposits and build-up from the intake valve and fuel injectors, and see if that solves the problem.4. Check the ignition switch. Start the car and ensure that the ignition key is fully in the "on" position, then wiggle the key and see if the car stalls out. Also, keep doing this periodically while driving the car. If it stalls, then its probably a bad ignition switch.5. Check the AFM. Unplug the AFM, and if the car runs okay (up to 1500 rpm's), then check the wiring going from the AFM to the ECU. Also, there is a contact on the AFM that sends a signal to the fuel pump. You might try lightly sanding the contact with fine sandpaper). Usually if the AFM is bad, it won't be an occasional, but a constant problem.6. Check the FPR. Pull off the hose and turn the ignition key to the "on" position, but do not start the car. If gas spews out of the nipple, your FPR is probably bad, and needs to be replaced.7. It could be that the coil or ignition module is bad, both of which can be affected by heat when they are damaged, causing the car to stall. However, I would do the steps above before replacing either of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYHEM Posted July 17, 2003 Share #3 Posted July 17, 2003 Originally posted by mushupork5 when im driving around sometimes the car will just turn off, and it wont start back up. When it shuts down, is it a stumble ? (i.e. fuel starvation)or like you turned off the car , via the key? i.e. electrical shut down?Z Babe, which hose or you refering to on the FPR ?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Babe Posted July 17, 2003 Share #4 Posted July 17, 2003 Originally posted by MAYHEM Z Babe, which hose or you refering to on the FPR ?Thanks Sorry, its the vacuum hose on the top of the FRP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mushupork5 Posted July 17, 2003 Author Share #5 Posted July 17, 2003 it shuts off as if i turned off the key, im going to mess around with it some more with ZBabe's suggesstionsthanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYHEM Posted July 19, 2003 Share #6 Posted July 19, 2003 mushupork5, any luck? Most of the time when a car does an " instant off" it's electrical. Let us know what you found ?ThanksZ Babe, Thanks I'm tracing a similiar problem. I have'nt checked the FPR, yet. Mine doesnt stall just backfires from off idle 'till 2500 RPM then is smooth. I'm looking at a timing issue or a low RPM lean out condition ( FPR ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjcurtis Posted July 19, 2003 Share #7 Posted July 19, 2003 Ihad a similar dead cut problem a few yrars ago. i put mine into the shop and spen heaps. My problem was dead cut in the ignition (ic pack on the outside of the distributor had a crack in the back between it and the body, not visible. When my engine got to operating temp in the 100 plus temp of the tropics the crack would open and the ignition would earth out. It happened to me hope this saves you bucks.With the backfiring and rough runner smoothing off with rpm increase sounds like another sticky AFM metering flap, give it a bath with Boeshield or some other spray lube.good luckSteve :classic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mushupork5 Posted July 19, 2003 Author Share #8 Posted July 19, 2003 first the connector on the efi was loose and then tightened, but now i dont know, i think the starter or the coil might be bad because sometimes it takes me a few turns of the key to get the engine to crank (any noise) and then it startsi think that might be some of the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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