Rust, Rust, and More Rust

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by drunkenmaster

A Z im looking to buy has rust here, how do you fasten replacement panels?

Stupid question, but where to the welds go or do you weld it everywhere and grind it back to paint over.

I'm actually debating that with myself right now, and was going to ask for opinions. It would be easy to stitch weld the rocker along the outsides of the flanges, but I wasn't sure whether that would be the best way (and then grind flush as you suggest). Or, I could drill a bunch of holes in the flanges, and weld them to the car flanges to approximate the spot welding. For the previous body work that has been done on this car (rear quarters mostly), it looks like the body shop did the drill holes and "spot weld" sort of thing. Anyone have an opinion on whether a continuous stitch weld would cause unacceptable warping in the rockers or anything?

thanks.

[Z Kid]

Where its external, you have to weld the whole length of the join, then grind flush, but where the original panel spot welds etc on, you just drill holes and plug weld using the mig. Make sure you only weld an inch or so at a time, otherwise the panel heats up, and on cooling changes shape drastically.

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by Z Kid

...the panel heats up, and on cooling changes shape drastically .

That sounds ugly. I think I'll practice some more before trying the car itself...

[Bpaccaud]

what did you thinks about this pictures???? could i found the same things behind????

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by Bpaccaud

what did you thinks about this pictures???? could i found the same things behind????

Any rust along the bottom curves of your rockers? Mine rusted out along the bottom sides, back near the wheel well, and under the front fender where the stupid drains pour out. If you don't have any bubbling of the paint on the rockers as they curve down toward the bottom of the car, then you are likely to be in better shape than me. I'd at least poke at your rust areas with something, though. If you can go through them with a screwdriver, then you'll have similar problems. I had an actual hole from the rear wheelwell into the rear rocker too, which would have been letting water get inside there for who knows how long.

Good luck.

[Bpaccaud]

the second one

[mdbrandy]

You might want to see what is under those metal threshold plates too...

[Bpaccaud]

i ve just test, nothing along the bottom curve....

but i have lot of rust underneath the door (after knocking with a little hammer...)

[Bpaccaud]

the right side is baddest because the rust down under the rocker panel and is more deep...

but i thinks this car will give me more surprises when i will begin the big works... we will see

[Z Kid]

It is very ugly, and whats worse is it looks great, and you walk away to let it cool down, come back 5minutes later, and your panel has developed a wave down the length of the weld. Its interesting to try welding two flat bits of sheet metal together in a long seam, and just look what happens, even better would be a couple of old car panels you have lying round, accident damaged or whatever, just take the grinder, cut them in many pieces and weld it back together. (dont do what I did and do it on a whole good car panel, and have to cut it out and try again)

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by mperdue

mdbrady,

Where are you buying your replacement panels? MSA or another source?

I got the rockers and the lower dog legs from Victoria British. They ended up being "TABCO" panels, which is fairly typical I guess. I have no experience with other brands, so I don't know if any other are better. I ordered from VB, since they are MUCH closer to me than MSA (I live in Illinois, and VB is in Kansas). Shipping is somewhat less expensive from KS to here then from CA to here. However, VB charges shippping on a $$ basis, where MSA charges on a weight basis, so you have to be careful. I just ordered some brake lines from VB (MSA didn't have them), and VB charged me $25 to ship a 5 lb package! VB's policy is good for cheap, heavy things, where MSA's is good for expensive, light things.

FWIW.

[inline6]

When welding on the exterior surface, try to use a mig welder and just tack weld it one tack at a time. Tack about every inch, then go back and keep tacking in between-- waiting for the panel to cool in between tacks. Don't run any beads. Takes a long time but you won't get panel warp. Also the length you are dealing with here is not long-- so won't be too bad a job.

At all other areas, drill holes in the repair panel and then rosette (sp?) weld. Essentially, these are like spot welds.

Been there and done that. Sheet metal work is very time intensive. Also the repair panels in the aftermarket don't fit well. Test fit and modify as necessary to get the original contours and wheel well opening curve. Good luck!

See my website -- essentially an article right now-- for some of the work I did on mine.

Garrett