Well, heres the deal...

I have been browsing the papers for a while looking for a nice 240z andd I think i may have found one. I am planning to call sometime tommorow to ask about the car but in the meen time I was wondering if you all think this is a good deal and if anybody knows the seller.

The add goes as folows...

1973 240Z EURO, 50k orig. kil, too much to list! $8000

and the sellers name is Bo.

Now i dont know but 50k kil orig! that sounds awesome! i hope it dosn't have rust. anyways if you are the seller PLEASE POST SOME INFO AND PICS before i get my hope up too much!

-Jeff

I think this is the car and owner you are asking about... he has a couple pics in his gallery but I think there are only 3....

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=8179

HOly shiznit! I am exited. 51 kilomiters, beautiful inside and out for 7k!?!?!?!

Man, i am calling sooner.

Jeff, It sounds good to me. The tranny is a bit of a problem, as parts for the long tailed "roadster" box are scarce and expensive.

What is the aprox price on one of these trannys or can it just be rebuilt? which would be cheaper?

I think I am in love...

-Jeff

I don't know how numerous the boxes are overseas. Here in the states, they came only on the 2L roadster in two variants. They are visually Identified by their three piece design, a Flanged output shaft and the tubular shifter mount, where the shifter was retained bu rubber or aluminum bushes.

From 1967.5 to 1969.5, are reffered to as Servo boxes. This is because they used Porshe style steel Servo syncros. the steel syncros are NLA from Nissan and no one made aftermarkets.

From 1969.5 to 1970 they are called "Warner" boxes because they sported more conventional brass syncros.

For both styles, gearsets, counters, mains and inputs are scarce to scant and $$$. Bearings can be found. (hopfully someone from overseas will chime in to say they have a source!)

For the Euro, JDM and Aussie Markets, the box was used for the Z and, i believe the skylines to the 240K (correct me please). The Z was longer. Fitted with a longer main shaft and tail piece.

They are very nice shifting boxes when in good condition and handle fast, power-on shifts well. The shift is a little ambiguos, somethimes earning them the nickname "Monkey-Motion" boxes. No matter, the fact remains that these were the preffered racing transmissions for Nissan cars untill Nissan came out with the Direct Drive boxes in the Late 70's.

There worst habit is the dreaded "5th gear neutral". where the fith gear was interference fitted, breaks loose and just spins. A rarer form, the retainer holding the 5th gear assembly comes loose and the whole box comes apart! The 1969.5 "Warner" boxes used a Splined 5th gear carrier that eliminated the first problem, and, well the 2nd is just rare.

Prices,,hum,,, I had my 70 roadster "Warner" box rebuilt (it had a bad counter bearing) for $350.00. It's a smooth M.F. now.

I have an early Servo box downstairs with the 5th gear neutral and a SICK rough 1 to 2nd shift I've been meaning to have rebuilt. I'm estimating $600 to $800 to get that done, and that price is getting higher the longer I wait.

I'd pay $250 any day of the week for an UNKNOWN roadster 5 speed, just for parts or core. Good, known condition ones are a rarer find. Of course, None of these work in a Z! You'd be buying them from overseas. The parts to convert a roadster to a Z are GONE from Nismo, never to return

(bell housing, mainshaft, Tail peice and 2 peice driveshaft).

SO If your Euro Z's box is BO, It would be Cheaper to drop in a ZX 5 speed and regular drive shaft. You'll loose bragging rights. You can send me the old stuff.

, thanks for the info. I'm gonna talk to my uncle who has more knowledge on transmissions thann anyone else i have met and also see if he can hook me up witha shop to rebuild it.

Heres in his words what the problem is:

Mechanically the car is flawless except the tranny. The syncros in 2nd gear are getting warn, you can hear a noise(hard to explain) when letting off gas in 2nd gear. Still works great, was told that I could probably get quite a few miles out of it still.

What parts does this probably involve? Is there any specail clutch that would be needed to make it all work?

Any info would be great because the car apears to be spotless otherwise.

Also, i was wondering, what are the differences between the Euro version and the USDM version?

Thanks for the help everyone!

-Jeff