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Ram Air


webzlinger

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Closing the warm air intake won't hurt. It's a polution thing, cars before the '70s didn't have it. Ram air sounds neat but requires proper ducting and is only effective above 100 mph. Cost to gain ratio makes it unpractial for the street. The money is better spent in increasing hp in other ways.

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I recommend ram air ducting. I am running a 77-78 280Z filter housing base with standard plumbing back. I removed the top section of the filter housing, you know the bit held down by the three butterfly bolts and fabricated a stainless clamp to hold the filter in, breathing good cool ram air. always loves cold days and late night running, winter is great. Oh and like LanceM above a hundred is much better again.

Good Luck

Steve:classic:

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I've read over the years some articles and discussions about ram air and the SU's. It seems that what benefits the SU's the most is simply a fresh 'cooler' air supply. There seems to be no benefit, and some say it actually hinders, using a ram-air setup.

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Hi all,

Based on the quote below, would one derive any benefit by routing a large diameter hose from say the grill area to the opening of the stock air cleaner? When I say hose, I'm thinking something like a clothes dryer vent hose (the type that have about a 3" diameter).The concept here is routing cooler air from the grill area to the air cleaner rather than having the air cleaner opening gulping heated air from the engine bay.

Best Regards,

Landmizzle '72 240Z

Originally posted by hmsports

I've read over the years some articles and discussions about ram air and the SU's. It seems that what benefits the SU's the most is simply a fresh 'cooler' air supply. There seems to be no benefit, and some say it actually hinders, using a ram-air setup.

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You are correct about routing a hose to get the freshest, and coolest, air from outside the engine bay. Check Race Parts Wholesale for their neoprene hose in different diameters. 3" at 10 feet for $49.99. Part Number: THENN-300. They also stock the NACA ducts that make a nice funnel style input area behind the grill. Although you can use dryer hose, just get the best quality you can so it will last.

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Most of the racers use flexible ducting called SCAT ducting hose.

SCAT is designation for ducting hose with a certain specification.

It is used in the aviation industry for routing air through the cowling for the intake system, and for heating/cooling entering the cockpit. It comes in sizes -2 thru -24, or 5/8 thru 6 inches.

The most common use for racers is brake ducting, the stock car guys use it to route cooling air within the interior as well as intake cold air systems. Your engine likes to breath cold air, I did testing many years ago, on intake temp vs. horsepower. As I recall, there was a 1% increase in horsepower for each 7 to 10 degrees ( depending on air density and barometric pressure)

of temp. change. Testing range was from ambient (68 to 72) to our particular under hood temp. of about 140 degrees. So you can lose or gain enough horsepower to make the investment worthwhile.

Phred (ex. A & P mech. ex. racer, current race engine builder)

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Thanks for all your replies guys. I hope this will help with my engine temp. Last weekend I drove 130 km with no problems. Got home, car was idling for 5 min. & started to steam up!!!!!

All the fluids are fine????

I'll try to get my sig improved soon. Just gotta take a few more pictures.

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I would agree with Rick about the cooler air. Getting cooler air from up front of the grill would be your best option and easily done too. If it's dryer vent hose it may easily be damaged or fall apart which the hose from Race Parts Wholesale works great.

Here is an older picture of that idea I used in the past, since then I have changed it and added an HKS filter infront of it, but same idea of getting fresh cooler air from up front.

Craig

post-4123-14150792903517_thumb.jpg

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