It lives!

[blitzkraig]

Just another post about a user's Z finally hitting the road again. Took a while to get started and warmed up but it runs. Definitely needs a muffler, it sounds like a biplane. I took it for a spin around the block and the T5 swap seems to have no problems. Just curious, what's wrong with the timing when a flame comes out of one of the carbs when I rev the motor?

I'll post a video of the car running around in a day or two!

YAHOOOO! I have a car again!!!!!! :stupid:

[240Zdragon72]

I have that same problem! The car will start but when I go back to the on position, she dies. What did you guys do to get yours to run?

Brian:alien:

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by 240Zdragon72

I have that same problem! The car will start but when I go back to the on position, she dies. What did you guys do to get yours to run?

Brian:alien:

Did you change your car to an internally regulated alternator?

[blitzkraig]

I think it took me a while to get it started because the fuel needed to work it's way all the way down the lines. Not really sure what problem you're referring to. Mine now starts with little effort. Anyone got suggestions with the flame from the carb? I'm going to drive it to my work about a 1/2 mile from my house where I can use a coworker's timing light. Should I worry about driving that short distance untuned?

[240Zdragon72]

The alternator was already on the L28. I do have a E12-80 ignition modual, and I'm pretty sure it is wired up right.

Not really sure what problem you're referring to.

I was referring to your quote

Took a while to get started and warmed up but it runs.

So I guess I should just keep starting her until one day she starts running? Definetly see a rebuild coming in my near future.

Thanks anyway:

Brian:alien:

[blitzkraig]

Oh, the 280zx dist conversion.:stupid: Well.....have you tried hooking jumper cables to another car to see if you have enough power to keep it going? Does it actually start running when in the start position or does it just sound like the engine is firing? Is the module new or from a junkyard? I pulled 3 from the local pick n pull in case some didn't work.

I'm actually very surprised my conversion worked without a hitch. Just be sure the firing order is adjusted right. Bypass the ballast resistor and check that the coil to module connections are right!

Good luck!

[Victor Laury]

Runs on start and dies on run. No question. That's the ballast resistor circut.

On a points style dizzy, The ballast resistor cuts the voltage down to 6 volts to preserve the points. 12 volts, all the time, burns them up quick. So, cars of our vintage installed 2 curcits.

A full 12 volts as you start the car, to ease cold starting.

Release the key and you're on the second curcit, through the ballast at 6 volts.

When we install the EI dizzy, we bridge the ballast, so it's 12 start and 12 run. This will over heat the stock coil so that needs to go as well.

If you've done this, something is wrong at that point. Start at the connections you made and hopefully the error will be evident.

[240Zdragon72]

I tis a brand new Optima Red Cap. I think it would have enough juice to start the engine. It could also be that I have a lot of rotational play of the distributer, and I can pull the dang thing out of the engine. Before I rebuild, I'd like to find out if the engine will run.

Thanks

Brian:alien: