Weird set of Tokico's...

[Zvoiture]

!

[HS30-H]

20 inch wooden wheels?

They will mess up your gear ratios you know.

[Zvoiture]

Hehe... THAT is 60 gallons of 2003 Fairlady freshly pressed and resting gently on French oak.

steve77

[sjcurtis]

Zvoiture,

Now those two pegleg inserts are a sweet look,love the sign writing on the case. I am sure they will be Dynomite under pressure.

good luck

Steve :classic:

[Bambikiller240]

I've been watching this thread for what seems like a month and I am amazed that no one has even mentioned a concern that these "peg-leg" Tokiko strut inserts were not designed for the Z car application that they are now being sold to be used on.

Hopefully the ones currently being sold for Z's were originally used on a car with similar weight, etc as the Z car. BUT......

With the "body" of the strut (excluding the peg-leg) being 2" shorter than the original strut, isn't anyone concerned that this strut probably doesn't have as much "travel" (i.e. range of motion) as the originally spec'd strut cartridge. Especially when using short springs, I would be worried about bottoming out the strut and destroying it......and the handling of the car.

Anyone have any thoughts on this??? Anyone? After all 2" is not a small difference.

[mperdue]

Yeah I wouldn't accept those....

Great avatar though!!!!

[2ManyZs]

If you look back a ways in his pics, I think you'll find one where the "peg-leg" is standing next to the correct one and the "peg-leg" actually has a longer piston then the original type.

To be honest, I don't think you'll have any binding or bottoming issues, as you don't use the entire piston travel on the original one. You end up pushing the piston down an inch or so when you compress the spring enough to put the top isolator on and the suspension travel is determined by your spring lenght.

These cartridges are usually used only when using coil-overs and you section the strut housing, which would be the amount of thickness of the spacer on the bottom. Seems odd though that they no longer seem to have the correct one for the original lenght strut housing and are trying to get away with using the one that is for another vehicle that they have been selling for 240's with sectioned struts.... hmm.....

[Bambikiller240]

Thanks for the reply Keith.

Yeah, I think I remember that pic you refer to.

I hope they work OK for Steve.

Not that I was in the market for a pair of these struts, but I wouldn't be able convince myself to buy a "work around" product like this for my car. I'd have to find a brand that still provided the correct item. I have a place for Tokiko to stick that "peg-leg"! :devious:

[Zvoiture]

To reiterate something...The 'pegleg' is actually the 240Z FRONT they have been selling for years. Z's have a pretty good F/R, so I am not too worried about them being the wrong rate. So here's an idea: Section the tube ABOVE the perch and use 240 fronts all around.

But back to Carl's concern. Hmmm. So are we assuming the stock strut doesn't 'use' the last 2"?

Keith, The longer rod length is a null point because the ride height is not going to be affected.

Hmmmm. I really hadn't thought about it this way. I have to draw this out on paper......

* top of rod

|

| Distance A

- top of cartridge

|

|

| Distance B

* bottom of rod

0

0 Distance C

0 Bottom of cartridge

*

|

| Unchanged ride height

-

|

|

| Unchanged length of rod

*

0

0 Free distance 2" LESS

I gotta go dowm in the garage and look at these thingys. Carl, I hate you.

steve77

[2ManyZs]

Steve, if you think about it, you can't use all the length piston...the bump stop you shouldbe using fits over the piston rod below the shoulder of the piston.... see what I mean?

If you take the cartridge and put it in the strut housing, use a 2x4 across the top of the cartidge and compress it. If it stops before the shoulder at the top of the cartridge gets even with the top of the housing, you might have a problem.

Now, it's highly unlikely you will compress the spring completely, but even if you do, you have the bump stop to keep the piston from bottoming...the only way the piston could possibly bottom out in the housing is if you completley compressed the spring and had no bump stop... then, it would be possible for the piston to bottom......If you didn't use a bump stop, you would run the risk of the top isolator beating on the top of the gland nut, which should keep the piston from bottoming in the cartirdge housing anyways....

See what I'm trying to say?

[Zvoiture]

OK, on the surface that seems like a logical concern, but think about it. Both rods are basically the same length, only the cartridge body is longer. The longer cartridge isn't going to have MORE TRAVEL then the shorter cartridge. It's not like it can go 'inside' itself for 'negative' travel.

I don't know what you call the 'stop' on the rod INSIDE the cartridge that prevents the rod from coming out, but lets call it the 'choke'. On the old 3016--with the longer cartridge, one of two things are happening. Either the choke is set HIGHER on a longer rod, or the last 2 inches are not even used at the bottom inside the cartridge. I just bottomed out both cartridges. Both go all the way to the machining. If anything, the new 3016 is more efficient, but that last 2 inches could be a holding area for more fluid, which could keep everything cooler, but not really once everything heats up.

So actually it is like this:

*

|

|

-

|

|

|

*

0

0

0 Old strut

*

|

|

-

|

|

*

0

0

0

[] Spacer on new strut.

Count the spaces.

I think they are fine.

steve77

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Zvoiture

I gotta go dowm in the garage and look at these thingys. Carl, I hate you.

steve77

Please don't hate me Steve. I didn't bring this up to wish you bad fortune or anything. In fact, I didn't bring it it from the beginning because I didn't want to rain on your parade. Since you seemed OK with what was going on. Finally, after holding it in all these weeks, I just HAD to ask the question. Sorry.

It is just that I an ANAL about stuff. I was raised and schooled in mechanical stuff by guys whose mantras included, "The right tool/part for the right job." "Quality is Job #1". etc. Compromising was always frowned upon unless thoroughly researched and thought out. If you had to do a job over again because you didn't think things though, or made a dumb mistake one was considered a "wanker" until you redeemed yourself in someway.