T5 Swap into early Z

[seth]

If still have the files i can post it on my web server.... drop me a email.

[Bambikiller240]

Craig:

You could also upload the pictures to a folder in your gallery here, the create a post in Tech Articles and link to each picture where-ever you want inbetween paragraphs.

Similar to the Pertronix Install, or Fan Clutch Rebuild threads already posted there.

[F114]

I installed a T5 in my -73 in 1987. I built a new tranny X-member from square tubing. I used a 280ZX Turbo driveshaft and had it shortened and balanced. I changed the diff input flange and heated and bent the shifter. I moved the engine 20 mm backwards and tilted it another 10 mm to the right at the same time. Third gear went with a bang after about 10,000 km's. The current owner of my Z might have the parts somewhere. I think he will use an RB engine and a stronger gearbox in it. The T5 is much nicer to use compared to the FS5C71B but the 5:th gear problem becomes 3:rd gear problem. Also the T5 is wider so changing the cluth without removing the engine is a P.I.T.A.

/Thomas

[Go240Zags]

Deadflo, I have a Series I that has a 5 speed that was installed by a PO. Altho you can't tell by just looking with the console and shift boot on, the tranny tunnel has been modified I believe by removing a little bit of metal (looks like about 3/4") on the dash side of where the shifter comes through the floor. There was also some of the early Series I console cut out, but I didn't realize this until I took it out. This is done so the shifter can do its full foward throw. The modification is entirely hidden by the shift boot and does not show. My 5 speed has the bent, rather than straight shifter. I prefer the five speed and have considered a swap to a T5, which is discussed here:

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/borg.html

Much work to go before the car will be roadworthy, but should be well worth the work. I could probably post a picture of how they cut the plastic/fiberglass away to make room for the shift if you need one.

Gary

[blitzkraig]

The stock 4 speed manual in the 240z is a great transmission, but I kept catching myself almost trying to shift into a nonexistent 5th gear. After my transmission locked up in a Kragen parking lot I decided to swap in a 5 speed. The late model 280z 5 speeds are easy bolt ins, but their gear ratios are not as good as the 4 speed, and their 5th isn't that high either. Seeing as I didn't want to swap out a differential with the transmission to make up for the different ratios, I did some research and found the T5 from an 81-83 280ZX Turbo has similar ratios to the stock 4 speed, and a greater overdrive 5th to beat! The only shortcoming here is the work needed to get this transmission into an early 240! I figured since I've done my share of custom work on my 56 Ford, I could easily get this transmission in. As it turned out, it really wasn't all that hard.

There are 3 major obstacles to overcome in order to accomplish this swap

• Transmission crossmember

• Driveshaft

• Shifter

The following is a description of what I've done to make the T-5 work in my '71 240z

Transmission Crossmember

Some websites have described using L brackets to adapt the crossmember from the T5 to the mounting holes in the tranny tunnel, but I didn't think this was quite as sturdy as a real crossmember setup. After eyeing the tranny position when mocked up into place, I decided to try chopping up the stock and T5 crossmembers to make one custom piece. So what I've done here is cut off the ends of both crossmembers, and welded the ends of the stock crossmember to the center section of the T5 crossmember. VERY IMPORTANT! Remember to position the transmission output shaft at the same angle as the differential input shaft for proper driveshaft angle. Also, use a NEW rubber transmission mount! I used the old one since I didn't have a new one on hand yet, and found out the old bushing was quite compressed (so the new rubber mount changed the driveshaft angle). Since this is such a critical support, be sure the welding is of good quality.

Driveshaft

The Z Garage website says that in order for the swap to work, you need to use a shortened T5 driveshaft and swap on the differential flange from a T5 equipped car. After going to a junkyard and getting said flange, I found out that it won't bolt onto the stock R180 differential. After much swearing and hitting of the punching bag, I figured that I could probably have the front assembly from the T5 driveshaft welded onto the stock driveshaft in place of the stock front assembly when I get it resized. When I took the driveshafts to get worked on, the guy told me he could actually swap on a new input spline into the stock driveshaft that would allow it to work with the T5 and still have replaceable U-joints (After a certain year, the U-joints became permanent). So a potential problem turned out to have a rather simple solution.

Shifter

This aspect of the swap is one of the nastiest obstacles to tackle. The shifter position of the T5 is about an inch forward of the shifter hole. So you either A: Cut the hole and the center console so a regular shifter will fit, or B: make a custom shifter. Since I wanted a clean looking swap I opted for the custom shifter route. To start off I purchased a shifter for a late model mustang T5 from ebay, thinking this would bring me pretty close to where I wanted. Unfortunately since the transmission is about an inch below the top of the tranny tunnel and the mustang shifter sticks straight up 3 inches before bending back, I had to do some creative cutting and welding. Basically I cut the base rod of the shifter almost near the plate, and welded a thick bolt at an angle to clear the shifter hole opening. Then I cut the other part of the shifter and welded it to the end of the bolt. It doesn't fit perfect, so I still had to open the tranny tunnel hole and the center console a little more in the front for the forward shifts, but not by much (shifter boot will cover it all). Also the shifter had to be heated and bent a little despite the new custom geometry (shifted forward fine, but hit the console in back shifts). The inner rubber shifter boot doesn't fit in place any more, but with a new leather shifter boot the only way you can tell there's a new tranny in the car is the knob!

And that's pretty much it, the major parts of the swap are finished. The rest of it is pretty simple. Use the stock flywheel and clutch parts. Swap out the T5 throwout bearing on the input shaft with the one from the four speed along with the clutch fork so you can use the stock clutch slave cylinder (and keep it adjustable!). Don't forget to fill it up with Dexron 3/Mercon ATF (as recommended by Z Garage). Enjoy that smooth shift into 5th on the highway!

If there's any questions (I know my write up is crappy, I'll redo it at some point) just email me!

blitzkraig@hotmail.com

[blitzkraig]

Pic of finished crossmember

[blitzkraig]

Pic of shifter setup

[blitzkraig]

pic of crossmember cutup and mockup

[240zzzap]

Deadflo, I have a Series I that has a 5 speed that was installed by a PO. Altho you can't tell by just looking with the console and shift boot on, the tranny tunnel has been modified I believe by removing a little bit of metal (looks like about 3/4") on the dash side of where the shifter comes through the floor. There was also some of the early Series I console cut out, but I didn't realize this until I took it out. This is done so the shifter can do its full foward throw. The modification is entirely hidden by the shift boot and does not show. My 5 speed has the bent, rather than straight shifter. I prefer the five speed and have considered a swap to a T5, which is discussed here:

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/borg.html

:

The info Gary was referring to has been moved to

http://www.datsunzgarage.com/borg/index.htm

[Fire604]

The info Gary was referring to has been moved to

http://www.datsunzgarage.com/borg/index.htm

Gone again. New host?

[LeonV]

This?

http://datsunzgarage.com/borg/

[Fire604]

This?

http://datsunzgarage.com/borg/

Yes, that's it. I'm an idiot...